Modern Asian Restaurant Tanica’s Chef Once Rejected Top Job As She Didn’t Want To ‘Screw Up’
For many chefs in the hospitality industry, becoming an executive chef is a career milestone to aspire to. Mandy Goh, 38, however, turned it down when it came her way seven years ago.
Today, she is the executive chef of The Singapore EDITION, one of only a handful of female culinary leaders in Singapore’s hotel scene. Born and raised in mainland Penang, she was previously executive chef at The St. Regis Langkawi and The RuMa Hotel and Residences in Kuala Lumpur, and held senior leadership roles at Conrad Koh Samui and Alila Seminyak in Bali.
Speaking to 8days.sg at Tanica, the hotel’s two-month-old modern Asian restaurant, Mandy looks back on that first big decision.
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Why she said no to the top job
In 2019, Mandy was chef de cuisine at Fifty 8° Grill in Mandarin Oriental Pudong, Shanghai, when she was offered the executive chef role at The St. Regis Langkawi. Her first response was no.
“I said, I’m not going to screw up a property,” she recalls. “I don’t have experience. I’m still too young to hold the title.”
She eventually agreed to visit the 89-key resort and meet its managing director. After cooking a tasting for eight people, including the MD, she accepted the offer.
Even then, she wasn’t entirely confident. Before signing, she asked the corporate team who she could call if she encountered something she couldn’t handle. They assured her that senior culinary leaders would support her.
The role proved a steep learning curve. Within a few months of joining, the pandemic hit, and Mandy had to navigate restaurant closures, kitchen maintenance and staff arrangements.
She leaned heavily on the corporate team, but also to look beyond the kitchen. “I learned a lot about marketing, cost, revenue, strategy and investment,” she says.
She didn't try to prove herself to the older male chefs
Mandy began her career at Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur in 2008, after earning a diploma in culinary arts from KDU College (now the University of Wollongong Malaysia). Two years later, she was part of the hotel's all-female team that won gold at the Bocuse d'Or Asia competition.
Being young and female in a hotel kitchen came with its own challenges. Some of the older male staff, in their 50s, would “look her up and down”. The petite, youthful-looking chef knew they might not take her seriously at first.
Rather than asserting her authority, she chose to work alongside them. “I never want to show that I'm above them. I always show them I'm part of the team,” she says. She spent time with the team, helping to solve problems and keep service running smoothly, instead of simply issuing instructions.
Mandy doesn’t set out to challenge stereotypes. “I just want to be myself,” she says. Still, she hopes younger women entering the industry will know they need not limit themselves to pastry kitchens, where female chefs have traditionally been more visible.
A chef with no ego
For someone with her résumé, Mandy is refreshingly unprecious about her food. At Tanica, she wants diners to enjoy their meals rather than feel they have to eat everything exactly as the chef intended.
If someone wants more heat, she'll adjust the seasoning or serve sambal on the side. “It's not about how much ego you have. It's about how flexible you are,” she says.
She also remembers regulars’ preferences. One guest has returned more than 15 times since Tanica opened in September. Mandy knows she likes her hanger steak medium rare, with an extra 10 seconds on the grill.
“I won't change my menu because of you, but I will remember your preference when you come back,” she says.
Keeping guests happy matters more to her than chasing accolades. “When they come back, the reputation and the awards will come automatically.”
Southeast Asian flavours on the menu
Tanica's menu isn't a direct reflection of Mandy's childhood food memories, but some dishes draw on flavours familiar to her growing up in Penang.
The asam pedas seafood risotto, for instance, takes its cue from the tangy, spicy Malay fish dish traditionally eaten with rice. Mandy reinterprets it as a risotto built on an asam pedas broth.
Other dishes reflect places she's worked at. The Iga Bakar Kicap, a 72-hour wagyu short rib dish, was inspired by a dish she discovered in Bali.
“Iga means ‘rib’ in Bahasa Indonesia, bakar means ‘grilled’,” she explains. She had seen signs for the dish all over Bali before finally trying it. “It has a really moist, tender texture and smoky flavour. They grill it with sweet soy sauce.”
For Tanica, she wanted to create a more elevated interpretation using wagyu short rib. Her version is boneless and served with sambal embe, a crispy Indonesian sambal made with shallots, garlic and chilli.
A calming sanctuary
Tanica has 80 indoor seats and sits just off the hotel’s lobby. Hanging plants and potted palms give it the feel of an indoor conservatory, and dishes are designed for sharing in a relaxed setting.
The space was previously Fysh, the hotel’s seafood restaurant helmed by Australian chef Josh Niland, which closed after his departure. Its new name combines “botanical” and “tannins”, reflecting a concept that brings together nature, food and wine.
“Iga Bakar Kicap” 72-Hour Wagyu Beef Short Rib, $58 (8 DAYS Pick!)
One of the more memorable dishes on the menu. The Australian grass-fed wagyu short rib is braised in an Indonesian-style stock with galangal, lemongrass, chilli and sweet soy sauce, then pressed, chilled and grilled to order. The result is succulent beef with a smoky char and a sweet-savoury glaze. We especially like the contrast between the soft meat and crunchy sambal embe, made with crispy shallots, garlic and chilli.
Asam Pedas Seafood Risotto, $58
Inspired by asam pedas, this risotto comes with amaebi (sweet shrimp), sea grapes and winged beans. The risotto is creamy, and the sea grapes and winged beans add crunch, but we wanted a stronger spice kick, though lemongrass and galangal come through. The shrimp is cut so finely that its sweetness is a little lost. We’d ask for a spicier version next time.
Charcoal Grilled Indonesian Squid, $26 (8 DAYS Pick!)
Grilled squid can easily turn rubbery or dry, but this one is remarkably tender and cooked just right. Pickled watermelon rind, sawtooth coriander and a ginger torch dressing lend a bright, aromatic lift to the smoky squid. A well-executed dish that lets its main ingredient shine.
350g Percik Grilled Spring Chicken, $38
Well-seasoned and grilled to a smoky char, the chicken comes with jasmine rice, fresh coconut salad and pickled mango inspired by Penang snack brand Jeruk Madu Pak Ali. The percik, a Malaysian spiced coconut gravy, adds fragrant, savoury-sweet depth, while the tangy mango pickle cuts through the richness.
Chicken Rendang Puff, $10 for two pcs
Flaky pastry filled with chicken rendang, served with roasted garlic yoghurt and curry leaf oil. A decent starter, but not particularly memorable.
Kuantan Chocolate & Pisang Emas, $20 (8 DAYS Pick!)
A refined take on chocolate and banana. The rich 70 per cent dark chocolate mousse is balanced by the caramel-like sweetness of gula melaka banana compote, with cocoa nib streusel for crunch. Finished with a glossy chocolate glaze and delicate chocolate shards, it is as elegant as it is indulgent.
Fragrant Pandan, $16 (8 DAYS Pick!)
A soft, fragrant pandan roll cake layered with caramelised coconut, paired with soursop and kaffir lime sorbet. The fruity tang and citrusy notes cut through the sweetness beautifully. A light, refreshing finish.
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