Singapore Politicians Frequent This Mod Malay Restaurant Inside Former Royal Mansion
Which ex-S’pore president requested for fish to be served with bones ’cos it’s “more traditional and shiok” at restaurant Permata in Kampong Glam?
If the walls at Permata could talk, they’d probably sound like a Cabinet meeting.
The halal modern Malay restaurant inside Kampong Glam’s historic Gedung Kuning mansion has quietly become a hotspot for Singapore ministers, diplomats and dignitaries.
President Tharman Shanmugaratnam, Prime Minister Lawrence Wong and former President Halimah Yacob are among the many political figures who have dined there.
Away from its ministerial guest list, Permata is also turning the spotlight on Penang cuisine this June with a new halal buffet spread called Penang, Flavours of the Orient.
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The buffet will feature over 50 dishes, including Penang Assam Laksa, Mee Sotong Penang, Penang Char Kway Teow, Pasembur and Nasi Kandar Heritage.
Some ministers return repeatedly
One particularly memorable guest was Acting Minister-in-charge of Muslim Affairs Muhammad Faishal Ibrahim, who ended up dining at Permata four days in a row while attending separate events there.
“We were genuinely delighted,” recalls the team. “To have him return four days running, even with such a packed schedule, told us how much he enjoyed the food and felt at home here.”
“One occasion that really stood out was the relaunch of the Malay Heritage Centre,” adds the team. “We had the privilege of hosting PM Lawrence Wong along with many of the ministers. Truly a memorable day for our whole team, and a real honour for Permata.”
The time a minister requested for off-menu durian sambal
Then there was the time Minister for Social and Family Development Masagos Zulkifli unintentionally threw the kitchen into panic mode.
According to Permata’s Culinary Director Chef Mel Dean, Minister Masagos was hosting overseas delegates at the restaurant when he suddenly recommended the restaurant’s sambal tempoyak (fermented durian chilli paste) — despite the dish not being on the menu that evening.
“The moment I heard that, in my heart I was thinking, ‘Alamak, tempoyak is not even on today’s menu and durian season is over!’” laughs the chef.
Thankfully, the kitchen still had some durian paste normally reserved for desserts. The team quickly improvised an improvised sambal tempoyak using sambal belacan, chilli padi, tamarind and fermented soy bean paste.
“See, I told you they would make it happen!” Chef Mel recalls Minister Masagos telling the delighted guests after the dish was served.
Former President Halimah asked for fish with bones because it’s “more shiok”
Chef Mel also remembers a particular request from former President Halimah Yacob.
While Permata typically serves boneless barramundi fillets for VIP dining, Madam Halimah specifically requested fish with bones because it’s “more traditional and shiok”.
The request prompted Chef Mel to personally head to Tekka Market early the next morning to source a fresh red snapper.
The fish was marinated with tamarind ginger sambal, grilled and finished with lemon basil and calamansi lime.
“What touched us most was seeing Madam President truly enjoy the dish in the most natural way,” says Chef Mel. “She even ate it with her hands because of the bones, just like how many of us would enjoy a good traditional fish dish at home,” he adds.
Progressive Nusantara cuisine inside a former royal mansion
Permata restaurant opened in 2021 inside Gedung Kuning (Yellow Mansion), a heritage mansion built in the mid-19th century for Tengku Mahmud, the younger son of Sultan Ali of Johor. Tengku Mahmud later named the residence Gedung Kuning after its distinctive yellow walls, a colour traditionally associated with Malay royalty.
Today, the restored building sits beside the Malay Heritage Centre and serves as one of Kampong Glam’s most eye-catching dining destinations.
Chef Mel describes his cooking philosophy as “Progressive Nusantara Cuisine” — preserving the soul of traditional Malay Archipelago dishes while reinterpreting them through contemporary techniques and presentation.
“I always say, innovation should never erase identity,” says the chef. “The DNA of the dish must still be recognisable and emotionally familiar.”
Examples include dishes like Fillet Mignon Lomak Cili Api, where beef is paired with spicy turmeric-coconut gravy inspired by Negeri Sembilan cuisine, alongside contemporary creations like seafood ceviche-inspired Permata Samudera.
Penang buffet in June
For June, Permata has launched a buffet inspired by Penang’s multicultural food heritage.
Chef Mel says the buffet draws inspiration from the island’s rich blend of Malay, Peranakan, Indian and Chinese influences.
Highlights include Penang Assam Laksa, featuring a tangy fish broth simmered with tamarind, chilli and herbs, alongside Penang Char Kway Teow cooked over high heat for a smoky wok hei hit.
There’s also Mee Sotong Penang, inspired by George Town’s famous Hameed Pata Mee Sotong, with yellow noodles coated in sweet-spicy peanut sambal sauce and topped with braised squid.
Other dishes include Pasembur and Nasi Kandar Heritage, a hearty spread of fragrant rice paired with rich curries and gravies inspired by Penang’s Indian Muslim food culture.
One-for-one buffet deal
Enjoy Permata's one-for-one buffet promotion, where every second adult dines free. The promotion is priced at $88 for two adults at lunch and $108 for two adults at dinner. Senior citizens dine from $38, while children below seven eat free. The buffet runs till June 30.
Permata is located at 73 Sultan Gate, S198497. Open daily 12pm to 2.30pm & 6pm to 9.30pm. More info via website and Instagram.
Photos: Permata Singapore
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