Authentic Taiwanese Chain Feng Food’s Kiosk In Takashimaya Sells Yummy Ice Cream Rolls With ‘Peanut Brick’ Shavings

The joint is an offshoot of Feng Food, a casual Taiwanese eatery chain with two outlets at Northpoint City in Yishun and Woods Square Mall in Woodlands. While the dine-in spots offer a broader menu, Feng Food Express distills the brand’s most popular items into a takeaway-friendly format, with a handful of snacks exclusive to the kiosk.

Opened by former assistant head chef of Din Tai Fung 

Behind the concept is 49-year-old Ben Yu, a Taiwan-born chef who was once part of the opening team for Singapore’s first Din Tai Fung outlet at Paragon in 2003. He later became an assistant head chef with the Singapore franchise, relocating his family here and eventually becoming a Singapore PR.

Ben left Din Tai Fung in 2017 to strike out on his own, co-founding Feng Food with three partners and building its menu around a signature that has since become widely popularised: Din Tai Fung-style fried rice. With Feng Food Express, he brings that familiar fried rice, along with nostalgic snacks from his hometown Yilan into a leaner kiosk format.

Fresh off the block

An example is Yilan Peanut Ice Cream Roll ($5), which references old-school Taiwanese street snack theatrics. Instead of pre-ground peanuts, the stall makes a dense, house-made “peanut brick” by combining whole peanuts with maltose and letting the mixture set.

Staff shave the peanut brittle by hand, creating thin, fragrant curls that fall directly onto a house-made popiah skin before scoops of taro ice cream are added. The roll is then folded up and served immediately.

“This is how it’s done in Yilan,” says Ben. “You shave only what you need, so the peanuts stay aromatic. I believe we’re the only ones preparing it this way in Singapore.”

Taiwanese sausages and pork meatballs also made in-house

Other snacks, such as the Taiwanese sausages and fried meatballs, are produced at Feng Food’s 3,700-sqft central kitchen in Woodlands.

“Most Taiwanese sausages in Singapore are made with [finely] minced meat, almost like hot dogs,” Ben explains. “Ours are made with bigger chunks of pork, so you can actually taste the meat.”

Their sausages use only the upper portion of the pork shoulder, prized for its tender bite and even fat marbling. Grilled, they’re juicier and more robust, with a meatier chew than the sweeter, smoother mass-produced versions. The meatballs, on the other hand, are made with pork hind leg – a leaner cut that delivers a firmer, more flavourful bite.

Nowadays, Ben is usually based at the central kitchen, which was set up four years ago to support the Feng Food outlets. Key components such as the pork chops served with fried rice are also prepared and marinated here before being sent daily to the eateries and the Express kiosk.

“We try our best to produce everything ourselves,” he says. “We want to present something more authentic and make sure it’s something others don’t have.”

Lessons from a reset

For now, Ben’s priority is consolidating and strengthening the Feng Food brand – a mindset shaped in part by a recent setback. In September 2023, he opened Ah Zhong Mian Xian, a restaurant in Chinatown that specialised in Taiwanese pork intestine mee sua. Despite healthy business, the 120-seater closed after just eight months due to disagreements among its eight partners, many of whom were former Din Tai Fung chefs Ben had mentored.

Ben adds that the venture had been profitable, but declined to share specific figures. “When the business started to do well, management issues became very different from what we discussed at the start,” he says. “Everyone had their own perspective, and in the end we mutually agreed to dissolve the company.”

That experience reinforced his preference for tighter operations and clearer decision-making. For instance, Feng Food Express originally sold mee sua as well, but the dish was later removed. “Mee sua needs more steps and more manpower,” he explains. “At the kiosk, we want to keep things focused and manageable.”

Cheaper prices at this kiosk vs dine-in outlets

Four cooks and a cashier are stationed at Feng Food Express, with most items cooked to order despite the fast-paced food hall setting. Ben and his partners invested around $300K to open the kiosk, choosing Takashimaya for its consistently high footfall and strong tourist traffic. “Tourists are usually more willing to spend a bit more on food, especially if it’s something they can’t easily find elsewhere,” he says. 

“Business has been fairly stable,” he adds. “But we haven’t broken even yet because of the high set-up cost.”

A plate of fried rice with pork chop here is about $5 cheaper than at the dine-in Feng Food outlets, despite similar portions. Ben insists the lower price point comes from the takeaway-only format and reduced overheads, rather than any compromise on quality.

While there are no concrete expansion plans yet, Ben is open to opening more branches if the right opportunity arises. “We’re focusing on improving our quality and sharpening our unique selling points,” he says.

Yilan Peanut Taro Ice Cream Roll, $5 (8 DAYS Pick!)

The roll starts with a house-made popiah skin that’s slightly firmer than the local version, helping it hold the ice cream together without tearing or turning soggy.

The real star is the freshly shaved peanut. Scraped by hand from a dense peanut brick, the shavings are intensely fragrant, with a lingering nutty aroma you simply don’t get from dusty, pre-ground peanut powder. They add texture and depth to what could otherwise be a simple snack.

Inside are two scoops of taro ice cream, sourced from a supplier but well chosen – creamy, gently sweet, and a natural match for the roasted peanut.

The polarising element is cilantro, which is traditionally added in Taiwan for its grassy, citrusy lift. While some enjoy the contrast, we preferred the dessert without it (the roll can also be prepared without cilantro, upon request). All in, this old-school Taiwanese snack is a compelling one that we’d happily return for.

Taiwanese sausage, $2.70 for one (8 DAYS Pick!)

Simple, but done well. Feng Food’s house-made Taiwanese sausage has a proper meaty bite, with visible chunks of pork that make it feel more substantial and savoury. Made using the upper portion of the pork shoulder, it's juicy with just the right amount of fat, while the grill lends it an appetising smoky aroma.

Fried Rice with Specially Marinated Pork Chop, $9 (8 DAYS Pick!)

When we first tried this dish in 2023, we called it one of the closest approximations to Din Tai Fung’s pork chop – and we’re glad to report the standard remains consistent. The fried rice isn’t quite as fragrant as the original (which now costs around $14), but it’s still competent and satisfying, especially at just $9.

XL Signature Chicken Chop Bento, $9.20 (8 DAYS Pick!)

If you’re hungry, this is the one to order. The bento features a hulking deep-fried chicken chop that almost spills out beyond its box. The crispy and juicy chook is served over Taiwanese pearl rice, complete with familiar accompaniments: a braised egg and beancurd, slices of Taiwanese sausage, kimchi, and salted preserved vegetables to cut through the richness. It’s a classic Taiwanese bento done properly, and offers solid value for the variety and portion.

Salt & Pepper Squid Tentacles, $8 (8 DAYS Pick!)

The squid tentacles are tender yet meaty, with none of the rubberiness you sometimes get, and the seasoning hits just right – savoury, fragrant and nicely punchy without being overwhelming. Shiok.

Fried Hsinchu Meatball, $1.50 per stick

These pork balls take their name from the Taiwanese city famous for this springy meatball style. Deep-fried to order, they have a substantial, satisfying bite, though we wish they were a little bouncier and juicier. Still, at $1.50 for a stick of three pork balls, it’s an easy add-on for a quick savoury nibble.

Bottled Drinks, $2.90 each

The kiosk also offers bottled Taiwanese drinks that pair well with the heavier mains. The roselle tea (left in pic) is light and refreshing, with a gentle tartness that cuts through fried dishes nicely, while the black sugar winter melon drink is richer and more comforting, with a deep caramel-like sweetness.

Feng Food Express is at Takashimaya B2 Food Hall, 391 Orchard Rd, S238872. Open daily 10am - 9.15pm. More info via Facebook & Instagram.

Photos: Kelvin Chia