Meet The S’porean Who Replaced Warong Nasi Pariaman’s Old Spot With Indonesian Nasi Padang Eatery Sederhana

8days.sg popped by during Sederhana’s soft launch on May 29, and a sizeable queue had already formed inside the former Warong Nasi Pariaman unit at 11am as hungry diners streamed in ahead of lunchtime. Staff hurried between tables balancing plates of smoky ayam bakar and glistening beef rendang inside the packed restaurant.

Some customers even arrived before opening hours. “Our first customer walked in at 7.10am,” Asyraf tells 8days.sg with a laugh. There have been long queues throughout this past weekend, too.

The former coffeeshop has been refreshed into a more contemporary space. While it looks simple on the first floor where you have to order and pay at the counter before grabbing a seat, the second level is now air-conditioned and furnished with rattan lamps and wooden flooring.

“We’re not trying to take over anyone’s legacy”

But bringing Indonesian giant Sederhana into the historic space wasn’t exactly a decision everyone welcomed.

“People online ask why an overseas brand is taking over a local business,” Asyraf tells 8days.sg. “But we’re not trying to take over anyone’s legacy.”

“We’re not trying to replace anyone,” says Asyraf. “We just wanted to continue the heritage of authentic Minang Padang cuisine in this area.”

Minang cuisine originates from Indonesia’s Minangkabau region in West Sumatra, home to nasi padang and dishes known for rich coconutty curries.

From pharmaceutical science to F&B

The sentiment perhaps hits a little differently for Asyraf because, until less than a decade ago, he wasn’t even in the F&B industry.

The Republic Polytechnic graduate studied pharmaceutical science and worked as a biotechnologist for several years before eventually taking the leap into food business at 25.

“We told ourselves, if it’s not now, when will it be?” recalls Asyraf of the pact he made with his business partner. “We gave ourselves two years. If it didn’t work out, we would just go back to our former industries.”

Eight years later, the gamble appears to have paid off.

Besides Sederhana Singapore, Asyraf also runs a bunch of other halal eateries including The Halal Corner, Smashed and The Brunch Club around Kampong Glam. This time around, though, the business has become even more personal.

“Because this is Padang food and more authentic cuisine, we decided to make it a full family business,” he says. “My wife, younger brother, brother-in-law and sister-in-law are all helping here.” The family has a share in the biz, too.

Why didn't he just open his own nasi padang stall?

Unlike his other eateries, Sederhana isn’t an original concept created by Asyraf himself.

And that was intentional.

“I think it boils down to authenticity,” he explains.

Used to be a customer at Warong Nasi Pariaman

His late grandmother was born and raised in Jakarta, and Indonesian food was a regular part of his childhood. Asyraf says he also frequently patronised nasi padang stalls around Kampong Glam, including Warong Nasi Pariaman, though he never personally knew its owners.

So when the iconic eatery announced its closure earlier this year, Asyraf felt the historic space deserved another authentic Minang concept rather than a completely different cuisine.

Interestingly, he says he wasn’t even a regular customer of Sederhana before bringing the brand here. Instead, he only connected with the Indonesian chain through mutual contacts after Warong Nasi Pariaman’s closure.

He finally reached Sederhana’s third-generation owners in Indonesia, flying back and forth over the next few months as discussions progressed.

Asyraf says the venture “cost around a mid six-figure sum”, including renovations to the ageing shophouse.

Did he approach Pariaman’s owners to take over their brand?

When asked whether he ever approached Warong Nasi Pariaman’s owners about continuing the business or learning their recipes, Asyraf says no.

“We wanted to do something of our own,” he explains. “We also didn’t know the reason they left, so we wanted to respect their decision. They closed one chapter, we opened another one.”

He also rejects the idea that bringing in a franchise instead of launching a homegrown concept makes him a “sellout”.

“We could have opened our own nasi padang concept,” he says. “But when you’re replacing a big brand like Pariaman, there are big shoes to fill. Sederhana is already a huge brand in Indonesia, so we felt people would appreciate the authenticity more.”

“If you cannot bring the taste of Minang cuisine properly, it eventually becomes Singapore-infused flavour,” he adds. “Pariaman served authentic Indonesian cuisine, so opening something more local-style would defeat the purpose.”

Some former Warong Nasi Pariaman cooks now working at Sederhana S’pore

Sederhana Singapore currently serves around 25 to 30 dishes daily, though the menu may eventually expand to about 100 items.

Prices are also fairly comparable to what diners previously paid at Warong Nasi Pariaman. Beef rendang here costs $6 compared to Pariaman’s $5.50, while ayam bakar is actually slightly cheaper at $6 instead of $6.50. The homemade bergedil, however, is 50 cents pricier at $1.50 each.

To maintain authenticity, many spices and ingredients are sourced directly from Indonesia. 

Interestingly, some former Warong Nasi Pariaman cooks (Asyraf declined to specify which ones and how many) are now working at Sederhana too.

According to Asyraf, the cooks were sent to Jakarta for two weeks to train with Sederhana’s Indonesian team and learn the brand’s cooking techniques.

Plates here from around $8

This nasi padang plate costs $17.50 as both the rendang and ayam pop are premium proteins priced at $6 each. An average plate here usually costs around $8 to $9.

The cuisine here leans heavily towards Minang-style nasi padang, known for its rich coconut gravies, aggressive spice blends and slow-cooking methods — all of which become immediately obvious once the food starts arriving at the table. Here are some of the standout dishes we tried during our visit.

Beef Rendang, $6 (8 DAYS Pick!)

One of Sederhana’s signature dishes — and deservedly so. This robust Minang-style rendang is cooked for four to five hours, resulting in a deeply reduced, thick, almost paste-like gravy packed with heady spices and kerisik (toasted coconut).

The tender beef falls apart effortlessly with barely any chewing needed, while the rich sauce clings deliciously to every fibre of meat. Intensely aromatic with smoky undertones, this isn’t the sweeter, milder rendang some Singaporeans may be used to. Easily one of the highlights of our meal.

Ayam Pop, $6 (8 DAYS Pick!)

This pale bird may not look like much, but it sure is sedap. The chicken is first boiled in coconut water before being lightly fried, resulting in juicy, tender meat with gentle hints of sweet coconut water, lemongrass, garlic and ginger. But the accompanying sambal is what really ties everything together. Deep in tomato flavour with a pleasant kick, it adds brightness and savouriness without leaving a lingering burn.

Ayam Bakar, $6 

Charcoal-grilled till smoky with caramelised edges, this chicken leg delivers bold yet nuanced spice flavours.

Dendeng Batakok, $3.50

Chilli lovers should make a beeline for the Dendeng Batakok (pounded beef with sambal balado), which features thin slices of tenderised beef drenched in sambal balado that delivers an immediate hit of heat the moment it touches your tongue. While not unbearably spicy, the sharp chilli kick definitely wakes up your palate instantly.

Homemade Bergedil, $1.50 each (8 DAYS Pick!)

This humble side dish ended up becoming one of our favourites. Freshly fried with a crisp savoury crust, the potato patty boasted a fluffy mashed interior without feeling greasy at all. Dangerously addictive.

Kikil Gulai, $6

Beef tendon simmered in creamy coconut curry till soft and gelatinous. While the rich gulai (curry) was fragrant and comforting, the tendon’s bounciness was a bit of an acquired texture for us. Skip.

Gulai Nangka, $2 

Young jackfruit stewed till soft in a creamy coconut gravy brimming with spices. The fibrous jackfruit soaks up the curry beautifully, resulting in a cosy dish that balances gentle sweetness with mellow spice. The fruit’s almost melt-in-the-mouth texture makes it especially satisfying when drenched over rice alongside the heavier meat dishes.

Kerupuk Kulit, $2

These airy fried beef skin crackers are served with a side of gulai curry, and while they may seem plain on their own, they become far more enjoyable once soaked in the gravy.

The crisp beef skin slowly softens as the tiny air pockets absorb the creamy, spice-laden gulai, almost dissolving in the mouth while soaking up all the rich coconut flavours.

Sederhana Singapore is located at 738 North Bridge Rd, S198706. Open daily 8am to 8pm. More info via Instagram.

Photos: Khalil Samsuri

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