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Herh keow (Teochew fish dumplings) – especially factory-made ones – can veer into gummy territory. Not in the capable hands of the youthful-looking James Chua, 43, who has been making these Teochew delicacies since he was a teen and helping out at his father’s fishball noodle stall.

As it turns out, James’ dad is the owner of Original Song Kee at Toa Payoh Lor 5 – not to be confused with Song Kee Fishball Noodle on Yio Chu Kang Road (the latter, in our opinion, is the best of the Song Kees around). He also runs Finest Song Kee Fishball Noodles on Upper Serangoon Road and is a cousin of the three Chua brothers who own Song Kee Fishball Noodle, though the two businesses are completely unaffiliated.

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