The caramelised Basque cheesecake is all the rage. It seems to have become the unofficial cake of choice during this stay-home period, whether it’s people ordering it from the numerous cafes (before the extended circuit breaker stipulated cake shops can’t reopen till 12 May) that sell it, or whipping some up themselves. And it’s not difficult to see why. Custardy and comforting with a lighter, more melt-in-the-mouth texture than denser American-style cheesecakes, it’s easy to make and even easier to devour. Unlike the traditional cheesecake, it doesn’t involve making a cookie crust, using a water bath and praying the top of the cake doesn’t split in the oven. In fact, the beauty of a burnt cheesecake, reportedly invented by the owner of San Sebastian pintxos café La Viña in Spain, is in its imperfect cracked, almost burnt-but-not-quite crown. The cake puffs up in the oven, then deflates a little once it's out to create a charmingly craggy, blistered surface with a caramelly flavour.

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