Delish $68 Peking Duck Found In Deserted Restaurant — The Bad News? It's Closing Down Soon
Great value, surprisingly tasty Peking duck in a quiet Hokkien restaurant. Never mind that the server slices it using what looks like a ratty durian glove. Grab one before the eatery closes on Dec 15.
For the past couple of years, we’ve strolled past Bee Heong Palace nestled amid a quiet shophouse stretch in Sembawang Hills without giving it a second glance. The old-school Hokkien restaurant is nondescript and often looked sadly empty through its glass doors. It’s often bypassed for its more popular neighbours like Plum Village Hakka Restaurant and barbecue joint Social Smoker on the same row.
It was only recently that a friend told us about its value-for-money $68 Peking duck ($35 for half): “It isn't Imperial Treasure quality, but it's really good for its price,” he raved. Moreover, there’s currently a fab 20 percent discount off all dishes till 12 December. So that means the duck works out to just $54.40 now.
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Why Peking duck and Hokkien grub?
A three-generation Hokkien restaurant selling Peking duck alongside Hokkien classics like kong bak pau and Hokkien mee? Random, but co-owner Lim May Lee, 60, tells 8days.sg that they offer the dish due to its popularity among Singaporeans.
Note that a decent Peking duck in these inflationary times often costs over $100 at many restaurants in town. Asia Grand, once a go-to spot for affordable Peking duck, has raised the price for a whole bird to $108, while the upscale Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck charges $138 for one.
History dating back to 1981
We’re told Bee Heong Palace was formerly known as Mei Xiang Lou and first opened in 1981 at another location.
After its third-generation owner and chef retired two years ago, his friend and wife took over the biz. As luck would have it, the one time we finally decided to check the place out — the boss informs us that their last day of operations is on December 14.
The restaurant used to have two other outlets – one at Telok Ayer which shuttered in December 2018, and another at Bedok North which closed down in 2020. Though their last standing establishment in Sembawang Hills joins this list, the lady boss hints at a possible return: “If we can find somewhere suitable, we may reopen again”.
Why close shop in the first place? Well, the place isn’t exactly thronging with customers. Moreover, there are rumours that the owners decided not to renew their unit’s lease after the landlord increased the rent. However, May Lee tells us it’s mostly due to lack of manpower. They originally had three chefs, but one “disappeared in August”. She adds: “It’s so hard to get resources to retrain. Plus staff keep moving after you’ve trained them”.
No-frills retro vibe
Stepping into the restaurant last Sunday evening, we found ourselves in a retro space with clothed tables and chairs set up for a humble Chinese banquet. The vibe’s a little sterile with fluorescent lights and a faintly musty scent in the air. The dining room was mostly empty, save for two to three other tables. It ain’t the Ritz, but we’re here for one thing only.
Peking duck, $68 whole; $35 half (now 20 percent off till 12 Dec)
Our pre-ordered Peking duck arrives soon after we’re seated, trundling away on a no-frills trolley with plastic red handles. It’s not the prettiest bird — while it’s glossy and golden brown in spots, it’s slightly charred in others. It also looks slightly skinnier compared to the gloriously puffy, polished ones from upmarket restaurants. We're told they use fresh, not frozen, ducks from Malaysia, nice.
Unglam ‘durian’ gloves
Moreover, our server whips out a ratty, greyish glove similar to the woolly ones donned by durian sellers. It doesn't look like it's been washed recently, yikes. Mercifully, he slips another clean plastic glove over it. “Hey, your glove looks like those used at durian stalls,” we remark. He explodes into a fit of giggles. He proceeds to carve the skin off the bird with a cleaver quite deftly, if without ceremony.
Instead of white flour pancakes served in bamboo steamer baskets to keep them warm – there are yellowish, eggy crepe-like pancakes plonked onto plates. The usual accompaniments like cucumber, spring onions and hoisin sauce also arrive in rustic fashion. Kinda ’80s style.
Taste test
We cloak the thin shards of skin in a slightly rough pancake, along with all the other fixings. It’s satisfyingly crisp and crackly with a rich, roasty savouriness. The wrap isn’t the most refined, but it’s at the very least not dry and fairly soft. We opt to have the remaining duck simply sliced and the meat is surprisingly juicy and well-seasoned. Yum. Absolutely no complaints at all for the price.
Kong Bak Pau, from $16 for pork; $1 per bun
As for their Hokkien classics — the Kong Bak Pau is worth ordering. Tender pork streaked with melty fat in a puddle of thick, tasty gravy. The mantou could be a little fluffier, but that’s just a minor grouse.
Braised Hokkien Noodles, from $12
Less impressive but still worth eating if you want to carbo-load are the Braised Hokkien Noodles. It's soaked in a mildly umami brown sauce and littered with fried cubes of lard. But skip the starchy Oyster Omelette ($14) and mediocre Fish Maw Soup (from $22).
There is also a dramatic-looking Flaming Chicken ($40) set ablaze at the table which we didn’t try, but if you only have room for one bird — go for the duck, duh.
Bee Heong would’ve been a regular casual Peking duck spot for us had we known about it earlier. Better late than never, we suppose.
Bee Heong Palace Restaurant is at 4 Jln Leban, Sembawang Hills Estate, S577548. Open daily 11am–2:30 pm; 5:30–9:30 pm Tel: 9821 3448. More info via their website. Last day of operation is on Dec 14, 2024.
Additional reporting by Tasha Ting
Photos: Florence Fong
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