Try Peruvian ‘Hokkien Mee’ At Tonito In Jewel Changi, With Fab Rain Vortex View

Dubbed the “little brother” to his second restaurant, Peruvian joint Tono Cevicheria, Tonito showcases the myriad flavours of Latin America. Tonito means “little party” in Spanish and accordingly, it sports a convivial vibe, with splashes of orange and yellow on its furnishings, and bright bands of colour across its walls. The 80-seater restaurant also sports a cosy terrace with a fabulous view of the Rain Vortex, perfect for solo diners to while away the hours while nibbling on a taco or three.

The menu is reflective of the recipes the warm, personable Chavez (pictured) has collected from his travels around Latin America. Besides familiar Mexican tacos and quesadillas, there are more exotic offerings (to Singapore, at least) like Peruvian-style noodles and Argentinean choripanes (sandwiches). Accordingly, the prices are friendlier compared to Tono Cervicheria, which serves more composed dishes with premium ingredients like raw fish, with tapas starting at $10 and main courses topping out at $28.

Quinoa has been a staple in Peru for generations, long before it became a hipster superfood. So it’s no surprise that Tonito's kitchen has a clever hand with this popular grain. Red quinoa, diced tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, corn and beans are tossed with salty cotija cheese (a Mexican cheese) and a piquant vinaigrette to yield what is, surprisingly, our favourite dish on the menu here. A hearty sprinkling of crispy fried quinoa adds a lovely, happy crunch. We almost feel healthier for eating this.

Antichuchos are Peruvian-style skewers of grilled meat — in this case, fillets of barramundi lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, and then draped in an adobo sauce redolent of cumin. A spritz of lime adds a sharp zing to the otherwise simple flavours. While the silky slabs of grilled fish were relatively satisfying, what we loved most about this dish were the crisp, fluffy French fries that sat at the bottom of the plate.

We love that the flour tortillas are toasted to a nice crisp around the edges and stuffed with a tasty, melty cheese and creamy guacamole. The slivers of well-seasoned beef are super tender, while the coriander mayo helps lifts the flavours with its grassy brightness.

At first glance, this Peruvian-Cantonese pasta dish looks a lot like KL Hokkien mee, but it tastes more like American-Chinese chow mein. Sliced onions and bell peppers are tossed in a sweetish soy sauce that the kitchen tempers with a splash of raspberry vinaigrette. Generous pieces of fried fish are strewn into the spaghetti mix along with crispy quinoa for contrasting texture. Not something we’re keen to order again (we’ll take real Hokkien mee over this anytime), but we reckon anyone hankering for American-Chinese-style noodles will find comfort in this dish. If you’re wondering how a dish like this made it to a Latin American menu, it’s because Chinese-Peruvian cuisine is very much a part of the Peruvian culinary canon. The Chinese were the first Asians to arrive in Peru and over the generations, created their own unique hybrid cuisine that blends the flavours of their motherland with that of their adopted home.

Having tasted similar sandwiches in Argentina, we think this is pretty authentic. Between a sturdy brioche-style roll are tender slabs of pork belly that are sliced and then fried so there is some caramelisation around their edges. A smoked chilli mayo and onion salsa add a tasty lift to the otherwise plain slices of pork, while crisp matchsticks of fried sweet potatoes lend it some much-needed crunch. It is plainer in taste than the American-style sandwiches we’re used to, but that’s just the style of these Latin American sandwiches.

If you’ve never had Latin American food beyond Mexican fare, this is a good place to start at. The service and prices are friendly, the portions generous, and the view of the Rain Vortex a lovely bonus.

Tonito's young kitchen team.

Tonito is at #02-248 Jewel Changi Airport. 78 Airport Blvd. S819666. Tel: 6904-3975. Open Daily 11.30am-3pm; 5pm-10pm. Last orders 3pm & 9.45pm. http://ola.kitchen/tonito/​​​​​​​

Photos: Tonito