‘Real’ Japanese Curry & $10 Wagyu Katsu Found At Under-The-Radar Italian Restaurant In Fortune Centre
Trying to locate Japanese Curry Miyabi in Fortune Centre is quite challenging. It’s tucked away in a quiet corner of the second floor, hidden behind a facade so nondescript we thought it was an office. By way of branding is a small A4-sized printout of a menu with its name unceremoniously plastered on its window. On the no-frills glass door is a similarly-sized framed sign labelled Piu M. Confused? Well, the Japanese-Italian trattoria (called Piu M) in the musty old building has recently launched a new Japanese curry rice concept which its IG account declares “real Japanese curry” for lunch within the same space.
Luckily, it’s a lot cosier inside. Quite chic, even. There’s a wood-topped V-shaped counter lined with 18 tan leather chairs. This overlooks the compact kitchen, where neatly-attired Japanese chef-owner Jun Matsubara, 46, bustles around, preparing and serving a small menu of Japanese curries for lunch.
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Don't expect this chef to shoot the breeze
Jun opened Piu M five years ago at a tiny unit in Orchard Plaza, before relocating to his larger Fortune Centre space in 2022. The diner serves fusion dishes like uni pasta and hojicha risotto, and has gained quite a cult following among some foodies.
Though Jun is cheerful and slightly cheeky initially, he soon grew bored of our attempts at striking up a conversation for this story. He pointedly ignored our questions as we paid the bill. Perhaps he was not in the mood to chat as he operates the place solo during lunch time (he has two part-time assistants helping him for dinner). Never mind that the place was only half-full when we walked in at 1pm on a Tuesday.
Piu M only operates from 6pm to midnight, serving Italian dishes with a Japanese twist. But last month, the chef decided to introduce a new lunchtime concept, Japanese Curry Miyabi. It runs from 11.30am to 2.30pm daily (except Sun and Mon).
Why is this Japanese-Italian joint selling curry?
Jun, who moved to Singapore 12 years ago to work at a restaurant in Scotts Square (he declines to name which one), has years of experience working in several Italian, French and Japanese restaurants, in both Singapore and Japan. The chef hails from Mie Prefecture (next to Nagoya) in Japan, and started out as a cook at hotel banquets there, serving French cuisine.
So why sell Japanese curry within an Italian joint? “In 2023, we served lunch with a donburi concept. Back then, I had a Japanese assistant to help, but she left, that’s why I changed the concept. Curry is easy to make, and you can make a lot of it,” Jun explains.
Japanese curries made from scratch
Jun mainly sells three types of curry - chicken, wagyu and pork - which he says he makes from scratch, without store-bought curry roux cubes.
His chicken curry utilises chicken wings, instead of the usual fleshier chunks as “it’s stickier and stronger tasting”. Meanwhile, his wagyu curry features wagyu that he minces himself. Jun’s pork curry is prepared keema-style (an Indian curry typically made with minced meat, chopped veggies and spices).
The chef also notes that his dishes are made with little sugar, and are “98 percent MSG-free”. We can confirm that Jun’s curry does taste less sweet and more home-style than those from Japanese curry chains.
The menu
During our visit, Japanese Curry Miyabi offered chicken ($14), wagyu ($18) and pork ($16) curry rice, plus a special curry of the day ($18). Sides included Iberico Pork Katsu ($10) and Wagyu Menchi Katsu ($10). You can also choose to add on miso soup or a fried egg for $3. Extra rice is given free of charge if you so desire.
Chicken Curry, $14
Of the three curries we ordered, the pale chicken curry is the mildest tasting, with little to no spice. Typical of Japanese curries, though we rarely see it served with chook and this much sliced onions. The thick, velvety curry is aromatic with a tinge of sweetness. It’s dappled with tender shredded chicken that has occasional pops of crunchy cartilage. The accompanying Japanese short-grain rice is nicely fluffy, and the smidgen of pickled purple cabbage helps to refresh the palate. Quite yummy. However, we preferred the…
Wagyu Curry, $18
Slightly spicier than the chicken curry though by no means fiery - ’cos this is Japanese curry after all. This is more robust and savoury than the chicken version, probably due to the beefiness lent by the wagyu. Wish the wagyu was served in chunks instead of minced, but this probably helps to keep price points reasonable. Definitely order a side of Wagyu Menchi Katsu (see below) to make this plate heartier.
Pork Curry Keema Style, $16
Jun’s pork curry is the strongest-tasting of the lot. The minced meat is less saucy than the traditional Indian version, but is well-seasoned with spices and an unusual touch of dried basil leaves. Order this if you’re into dry-style curries with a heavier, earthier taste profile. We, however, found it a tad too salty.
Wagyu Menchi Katsu, $10 (8 DAYS Pick!)
Juicy, tender wagyu patty coated with panko crumbs, deep-fried to a golden-brown crisp and slathered with tangy tonkatsu sauce. Delicious and pairs especially well with the minced wagyu curry.
Iberico Pork Katsu, $10
Lean but tender Iberico pork fillet covered in the same crispy crumb coat. Quite good, but we’d rather spend our calories on the more satisfying wagyu katsu.
Japanese Curry Miyabi (within Piu M trattoria) is at #02-29 Fortune Centre, 190 Middle Rd, S188979. Open Tue - Sat 11.30am - 2.30pm. Closed on Sun & Mon. Tel: 94562204. More info via Instagram.
Photos: Gwyn Lim
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