Two-Time Ramen Champion Winner Opens No-Frills Ramen Shop At Sim Lim

The 30-seat shop focuses on two main styles: Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen – available in classic, black garlic, and spicy versions – and chuka soba (Japanese-style Chinese noodles) served with a lighter chicken-based broth. Prices range from $9 to $16 for a fully loaded bowl, and there’s no service charge or GST.

Simple ramen joint helmed by a Japanese chef

At first glance, Menya Saku doesn’t exactly scream destination ramen. The modest storefront blends into Sim Lim Square’s usual lineup of no-frills eateries, which is precisely what Mamoru likes about it.

“There are hardly any Japanese concepts here. The building is mostly very local,” he says, referring to the steady mix of office workers and students who frequent the mall for affordable meals. 

Inside, the space is clean and unfussy, furnished with light wood tables and little decoration. Neatly dressed in all black, with a headscarf tied over his hair, Mamoru cuts a calm, focused figure behind the open kitchen. We arrive shortly after the lunch rush and are struck by how quickly he churns out orders on his own – a reminder that the humble joint is run by a seasoned ramen chef.

Mastered his trade at Ramen Champion

Born in Hokkaido, Mamoru relocated to Singapore in 2011 to work as an izakaya chef. Having done a working holiday in Toronto when he was younger, Mamoru was keen to find a place where he could practise his English and experience something beyond what he describes as Japan’s “monoculture”.

He later joined Ramen Champion, a ramen food hall at Bugis+ known for its annual chef competitions. It was there that Mamoru learned how to cook ramen for the first time, training under a Japanese ramen specialist hired by the operator. “It was difficult at first, but I got the hang of it after a while,” says the soft-spoken chef.

As head chef of Buta God, Mamoru went on to clinch consecutive Ultimate Ramen Champion titles in 2013 and 2014 – an achievement he is quick to downplay. “The competition was just among ramen shops in Ramen Champion, it’s not a national competition,” he demurs. When asked if he harbours ambitions of earning a more prestigious award now, like perhaps the Bib Gourmand, he simply laughs and says he hasn’t thought about it.

Why he opened a salad bar previously

After leaving Buta God in 2014, Mamoru worked across different Japanese concepts over the next few years – including Eat at Seven at Suntec City, and Tempura TenTen at Raffles City. When those businesses eventually shuttered, Mamoru decided it was time to strike out on his own.

While ramen was the obvious choice, he opted instead to open a Japanese-inspired salad shop, feeling it would be easier to manage as a solo operator. Mamoru launched Oh Some Bowls at Wilkie Edge in 2018, running the business largely by himself for seven years, until the building’s renovation plans forced him to move out. With no option to renew his lease, Mamoru found himself facing another reset.

Rather than relocate the salad bar, he decided it was finally time to return to ramen. “My specialty is still ramen,” he says simply. Mamoru invested a five-figure sum to open Menya Saku by Oh Some Bowls as the sole owner. 

The branding “by Oh Some Bowls” reflects a dual intention: “If there’s a chance, I may reopen the salad bar business in the future,” he says.

A one-man ramen operation in the kitchen

Mamoru does everything in the kitchen himself, from soup preparation to final plating. Fresh noodles are delivered daily from a Japanese supplier, and each bowl reflects techniques he’s refined over more than a decade in Singapore’s Japanese dining scene.

The Spicy Tonkotsu Ramen, for instance, features two house-made chilli components: one cooked with minced chicken for body and texture, and another sharper blend with chilli padi, ginger, garlic and onion – an adaptation to local spice preferences.

He stresses that his current tonkotsu broth is different from Buta God’s. While both are pork-based, Mamoru explains that the Buta God version was intentionally lighter to complement its more premium, fattier sliced pork belly topping without overwhelming the palate. At Menya Saku, the broth is richer and creamier, designed to stand up to a leaner chashu instead. 

Mamoru’s Japanese wife, Chiaki, 42, works full-time at the shop as well, taking orders and serving food directly to diners despite the absence of service charge. Formerly in the hospitality industry herself, she is warm and welcoming with diners, even if she is not fully fluent in English. The couple have no children, and for now, their focus is on making Menya Saku work.

Familiar faces from the past

The shop has had its share of ups and downs since opening. Some days are busier than others, and Mamoru is still fine-tuning aspects of the menu and workflow as he settles into this new chapter.

What has surprised him, however, are the customers who remember him from his Buta God days. A few old photos displayed in the shop have jogged memories. “After they saw the photos, they remembered me as a Buta God chef,” he says with a small smile.

No rush to expand

For now, Mamoru has no plans to grow beyond this single shop. With competition in Singapore’s ramen scene fiercer than ever, his priorities remain grounded.

“We have no plans to expand for now as we just opened this new shop,” he says. “Nowadays there are many ramen places in Singapore, it’s very competitive.”

Still, he takes it in stride. “Everyone has different tastes and preferences,” he adds. “I hope more people can give us a chance to try our ramen.”

Special Tonkotsu Ramen, $15 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Prepared over about 10 hours using a blend of pork and chicken bones, the broth is creamy and full-bodied without tipping into cloying territory. It coats the noodles well, delivering depth and savouriness without overwhelming the palate. The fresh Hakata-style noodles have a springy, slightly firm bite, holding their structure well in the dense soup.

Our fully loaded $15 bowl comes with extra slices of chashu and an ajitama. The pork doesn’t have that desired melt-in-your-mouth softness, but the egg fares better: perfectly cooked, with a just-set white and a custardy yolk.

Given that the chashu isn’t excellent, we suggest ordering for the simpler options – the basic tonkotsu bowl ($11) or the version with ajitama ($13) offer better value.

Special Red Tonkotsu Ramen, $16 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Instead of just relying on chilli oil, which can often make spicy ramen feel greasy, Mamoru builds heat with a house-made chilli base spiked with fresh chilli padi, yielding a gentle warmth that spreads gradually. The additional scoop of chilli paste on top includes minced chicken for added texture. It slowly melts into the broth as you eat, allowing you to control how fiery things get. 

If you like your ramen rich but not one-note, and appreciate serious spice, this one’s worth trying.

Special Black Garlic Tonkotsu Ramen, $16

A competent bowl with a house-made black garlic oil. Like the other ramen options on the menu, it isn’t overly heavy, and the garlic flavour is nuanced rather than aggressive.

While pleasant and easy to drink, the broth doesn’t quite stand out next to the red tonkotsu’s punchy spice or the classic tonkotsu’s comforting richness. A solid option for black garlic fans, but not the one we’d prioritise on a first visit.

Niku Soba Ramen, $14 (8 DAYS Pick!)

This is the sleeper hit on the menu – and our favourite bowl overall. Built on a chicken base layered with bonito stock, the broth is deeply savoury, delivering a clean, lingering umami.

The chuka soba (Japanese-style Chinese noodles) is slightly firmer than the Hakata-style ones used in the tonkotsu, which soaks up the broth well without becoming soggy. Tender sliced beef adds body without overwhelming the broth, while spinach and fishcake lend a comforting note. The onsen egg lends an extra layer of creaminess as the yolk melts into the soup. Don’t skip this.

Chicken Ramen Salad, $8

A quiet nod to Mamoru’s Hokkaido roots – this style of ramen salad is commonly found in izakayas there – and a familiar item for fans of his former salad bar. Fresh veggies are tossed with chewy chuka soba and grilled chicken, lightly dressed in mayo and teriyaki sauce. Refreshing yet filling, this works well either as a shared side or a lighter meal on its own.

The details

Menya Saku by Oh Some Bowls is at #02-03 Sim Lim Square, Rochor Canal Rd, S188504. Open Tue to Sun 11am - 8.30pm. Closed on Mon. More info via Instagram. 

Photos: Kelvin Chia