‘I’m A Malay Boy With No Education, My Parents Are Hawkers & Now I’m Opening A High-End Japanese Restaurant In Paris’ - S’pore Chef Describes It As ‘Crazy’

“I came back to S’pore to open this restaurant for my parents”

“They felt the name wasn’t fancy enough,” Akmal reveals. His mother had originally named their stall after the Harumanis mango, whose name means “sweet-smelling” in Malay. “They thought I should go with something more international. But I believe it’s important to stay true to what we represent,” he says.

His parents were ultimately moved by his dedication, with the restaurant’s opening bringing tears to their eyes. “I came back to open this restaurant for my parents. They’ve hinted before about how I’ve opened restaurants in Dubai, so why not here as well? I opened Harummanis Sultan Gate because I want to carry on my family’s legacy,” he explains.

Worked at Iggy’s as head chef before starting own biz

Before relocating to Dubai, Akmal honed his skills at prestigious fine-dining establishments in Singapore. Even though he was the head chef at mod European restaurant Iggy’s, he was virtually unknown in Singapore. He also cooked at Les Amis and Saint Pierre. “I definitely felt like I was underappreciated during those years in Singapore,” he told CNA in an earlier interview. In 2013, he took on a new challenge as a chef collaborator at Zengo in Dubai’s Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort & Spa. “My life in Dubai was amazing,” he reflects. However, feeling “lazy” and “tired of the comfort zone” after two and a half years, he sought change, marking the beginning of his restaurateur journey.

Sold family's HDB flat to open own restaurant, went broke before succeeding

In 2016, he sold his family’s five-room HDB executive flat to raise around $500K in capital to open his first restaurant in Dubai, 3Fils, with two partners – a move that he admits, in hindsight, was “very impulsive”. The venture had a rough start. “The first year was bad. I was broke. There were so many meltdowns and fights. I even came back to Singapore to look for a job, but the salary was low. I was stuck at the point where I was too good to be employed and not good enough to be a business owner,” he shares.

Describing himself as a “highly motivated person”, Akmal decided to persevere, putting in “endless hours” at 3Fils. Eventually, business became “very successful”. However, in 2020, Akmal exited the venture due to a dispute that he prefers to keep private.

After his departure, Akmal and his wife Inez launched White Rice Co, a Dubai-based F&B consultancy. “She’s the best at negotiating with landlords,” he says cheekily. Working with different collaborators and investors, their global portfolio includes the contemporary Asian diner 53 Restaurant in New York City and modern Japanese restaurant Otoro in Abu Dhabi.

“Now I’m opening restaurants in cities I wished I could’ve worked in when I was younger”

Reflecting on his achievements, Akmal, who left school aged 10 to help at his parents’ stall, grew emotional. “It’s a dream come true. I’m opening restaurants in cities I wished I could’ve worked in when I was younger. I’m a Malay boy with no education. My parents are hawkers. I’m going to open a high-end Japanese restaurant in Paris soon. It’s crazy, you know?” he shares.

Original vision of fine-dining Malay cuisine in S’pore didn’t work out

Harummanis Sultan Gate holds a special place in Akmal’s heart. “My original plan was to offer fine-dining Malay cuisine, presenting the food I grew up with,” he reveals. However, he soon realised that his vision conflicted with Singapore’s market realities. “I was living in my own bubble in Dubai,” he admits. “Now I know that this cuisine needs time. Some people don’t get how Malay food can be fine-dining.”

“People would compare and say the rendang at nasi padang shops is cheaper. They don’t see the added value [of dining at Harummanis Sultan Gate]," he notes. To adapt, Akmal introduced a more affordable, mid-range menu with prices starting at $37 for a signature set available for lunch and dinner, and $110 for a five-course tasting menu for two, down from the original $65 and $165.

“Even at [my parents’] Teck Whye stall, people complain when there’s a $1 increase in price. This is just how the market is; we can’t be frustrated with it,” he says. “I'm not disappointed, it’s just how life is. You have to get people to trust you, people who celebrate what you do."

Monthly visits to ensure restaurant runs smoothly, mum helps to cook too

Akmal and Inez visit Singapore monthly to keep the restaurant running smoothly. During our visit, we met their three charming daughters, who were on school break. Their presence added to the restaurant's warm vibe. Akmal’s parents and sister often drop by the restaurant after closing their hawker stall. His 68-year-old mother helps to prepare the rempahs for some of the restaurant's signature dishes like rendang and sambal goreng, ensuring that the flavours remain true to their roots.

Their hawker stall operates independently from the restaurant to preserve its unique identity.

Decked in warm, earthy tones with wooden floors and furniture, the restaurant exudes cosy yet elegant charm. A lush wall of greenery livens up the space, while a striking oil painting of Harummanis dishes adds a pop of colour.

Converted private dining room into cafe

Recently, Akmal transformed the restaurant’s private dining room into No Strangers Here, a cafe with its own entrance but linked to Harummanis inside. “The private room didn’t get enough bookings to justify keeping it open,” he explains. The new cafe offers around 10 seats and features espresso-based drinks, pastries and house-made bombolinis.

Mod Malay dishes

The Harummanis Sultan Gate menu offers both familiar and lesser-known Malay dishes with a contemporary twist. For starters, there’s beef rendang presented as a filling between fried buns in Minangka-Bao ($24).

Dulang at 37, $37 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Served on a rustic wooden tray (“dulang” is Malay for “tray”), this set menu feels like a modern twist on traditional nasi padang.

Minangka-Bao for two, $24

This trendy take on rendang features moist, mildly spicy shredded beef shank between crispy fried mantou buns. We loved the addition of avocado salsa, which adds a refreshing, creamy contrast to the sandwich. A fun starter to share.

Batang Pinang, $24 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Serving beef carpaccio at Harummanis Sultan Gate is a bold statement. “Malays tend to eat food that is fully cooked. Nothing raw. I wanted to push the envelope a bit,” Akmal explains. The result is an elegant dish featuring Australian wagyu tenderloin, thinly sliced and dressed in white truffle oil, and for a touch of familiarity, shrimp paste. Topped with crunchy jicama, this is an impeccable dish that we’d gladly finish on our own.

Ayam Masak Putih, $28 (8 DAYS Pick!)

An elevated take on a lesser-known Malay creation. This dish features succulent grilled chicken simmered in coconut milk infused with aromatic spices like ginger. Charred corn adds a smoky sweetness to the velvety sauce, an excellent final touch. Hearty and satisfying.

Harummanis Sultan Gate is at 37 Sultan Gate, S198485. Open daily except Mon, 12pm to 8pm. Tel: 8022 9647. More info via Facebook & Instagram.

Photos: Dillon Tan