Fermented Beancurd For Cooking Carbonara: How A 118-Year-Old Hong Kong Shop Modernises Its Business
“Oh, Liu Ma Kee. Very traditional. Their fermented beancurd is one of the best in town,” remarked our Hongkonger friend when we asked her if she had heard of an old-school shop in Yau Ma Tei selling the old-school Chinese condiment.
Almost every local knows Liu Ma Kee, which has been around for 118 years. The family-run business is tucked within a six-storey building in West Kowloon. The unofficial ‘Kitchen Street’ of Hong Kong, this neighbourhood is filled with many longtime shops specialising in kitchenware like wooden chopping boards, Chinese weighing scales, and knives.
Business founded in 1905 in Guangzhou
The business was founded in 1905 in Guangzhou by the Liu twin brothers, and is now run by their grandson, granddaughter-in-law and great-grandson. The brothers moved to Hong Kong in 1905, where they continued selling their soybean products like tofu and fermented beancurd out of a small shop space in Yau Ma Tei.
No advertisements, limited quantity
It was only in 1915 that the siblings decided to specialise in selling only fermented beancurd, as they had observed much more demand for it than other products. They branded their beancurd line as ‘Liu Ma Kee’ (which means ‘Liu twins’ shop’ in Cantonese). Sales became so brisk that the brothers were eventually able to buy over their shop unit, which their descendants are managing now.
The fermented beancurd sold here are divided into three types: Fermented (a pale yellow), Dark (sun-dried for a month for a darker hue) and Red (spiked with chilli flakes). There are also mod flavours like Plum, Pickled Ginger and a garlicky Carbonara (which we will get to later).
It’s not stocked in supermarkets
Due to the small quantity produced, you can’t find Liu Ma Kee in major Hong Kong supermarket chains like Wellcome. The store only distributes its wares to small neighbourhood shops and minimarts. Its regulars drop by the original Jordan flagship to buy condiments and chat with the proprietors, which comprise husband-and-wife Liu Chuan Kin and Tsoi Sai Mei, both 62.
Fermented beancurd with bonus chiropractic tips
Chuan Kin himself had inherited Liu Ma Kee from his father after helping out at the shop since he was a kid. During our recent Hong Kong visit, we dropped by to buy fermented beancurd (the lady boss shrink-wraps our purchases in plastic to keep ’em secure for the flight back to Singapore, but it does leak some from airplane pressure, so do wrap it a couple more times with plastic bags if you are buying).
As we were leaving, Chuan Kin suddenly asked: “Are you bothered by backache?” Yes, we said in surprise, to which he replied he had observed that our posture was problematic for our health. He sent us on our way, kampong neighbour-style, with some tips for stretching and aligning our spine properly.
As it turned out, Chuan Kin is very knowledgeable about proper posture and form, having learnt kung fu and chiropractic from a master since he was young. “I also have a secret recipe for medicinal wine from my master,” he said.
Fermented beancurd for carbonara
While making her own version of carbonara for her son and daughter, Sai Mei thought of adding fermented beancurd to the sauce. The combination was so interesting that the family decided to stock it at their store as an actual product.
We can’t speak for carbonara purists, who believe the dish should only be made with eggs, hard cheese, cured pork and black pepper, but Liu Ma Kee’s beancurd does make a pretty fab pasta sauce. The cubes are brined just right and not aggressively salty. When mashed it becomes smooth and creamy, with a flavour that reminds us of cream cheese.
You can also add dark beancurd to steamed beef and pork dishes, or mix it with noodles. The red beancurd can be used for stewed vegetarian food and batter for fried chicken wings (a popular dish in Malaysia). Charmingly enough, cooking recipes are also pasted on Liu Ma Kee’s storefront to inspire customers.
Fourth-generation owner is a professional musician
Chuan Kin and Sai Mei are passing their business to the fourth Liu generation — their son Jay (extreme right in pic), whom Sai Mei joked “is forever 18” to her. A professional flautist, Jay studied music at the Royal Northern College of Music in Manchester, UK, and now performs as a freelance musician in Hong Kong.
He joined the family business in 2013 after coming back from the UK, having started working in Liu Ma Kee as a kid placing labels on beancurd bottles and cashiering. “I now work at the store in the morning, and have music rehearsals or perform in concerts at night,” he explained. “It’s better to work as a freelance musician as I can manage my own schedule.”
As for whether he intends to modernise his family’s business after taking over, Jay reckoned that Liu Ma Kee will always be anchored by its three foundational products: Fermented beancurd and the dark and red versions. “If the products are changed, our customers might not know how to cook with them,” he said.
Instead, he and his family attract more customers by offering new flavours like plum and pickled ginger fermented beancurd. He shared: “We sometimes give the new products to customers for free, so they can try them and come back to buy next time.”
Liu Ma Kee, 1-7 Min St, Yau Ma Tei, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2730-2968. Open daily except Sun, 9am-5pm. www.facebook.com/liumakeelimited
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