16-Year-Old Japanese Robatayaki Restaurant Akanoya Now Chinese Diner Serving Braised Duck From $58
Half a duck costs $58 while a whole bird will set you back $108. The mod Chinese diner is opened by the folks behind London Fat Duck, but they say the two concepts are different.
Following the launch of Hong Kong-style roast duck specialist London Fat Duck at PLQ mall – its sole remaining outlet after previously operating several locations – homegrown F&B group Akashi has hatched another duck-driven concept – this time, spotlighting braised duck.
Opened in March, Kamo by London Fat Duck is a 52-seat modern Chinese restaurant located at Orchard Rendezvous Hotel. It replaces Akanoya Robatayaki, the long-running Japanese grillhouse previously run by the group since 2008.
Named after the Japanese word for “duck,” Kamo centres around contemporary Chinese cuisine with duck as the star – served braised, roasted, or Peking-style. You’ll also find a strong supporting cast of seafood, meats, noodles, rice dishes and dim sum.
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Akanoya will be back – eventually
But not all is lost for fans of beloved robatayaki spot Akanoya: the Akashi Group is actively looking for a new, more intimate space for the restaurant which specialised in Japanese-style charcoal grilled meats and seafood, which closed in November 2024 after 16 years.
Kamo’s 52-seat dining space is similar in size to Akanoya’s previous set-up, but the team had already been toying with the idea of downsizing the robatayaki. “We noticed that diners were gravitating towards more intimate dining experiences,” explains Wesley Goh, 38, head of operations and business development.
Photo: Akanoya Robatayaki
He asserts that the decision to shutter Akanoya wasn’t due to poor performance. “After renovations in 2022, business was doing quite good, to be honest. In the last 12 months, I wouldn’t say we were making a loss, but sales were not as ‘beautiful’,” he shares, acknowledging the increased unpredictability of the F&B market. “We still get customers coming by, thinking it’s Akanoya. It’s heartening to see it’s still on people’s minds. There’s no fixed timeline, but we’re definitely planning to reopen.”
Wesley, who started working at his family’s restaurants at 18 and trained under his father, Sam Goh, and uncles – the group’s founders – was part of Akanoya’s R&D team.
His fondest memory of the Japanese restaurant? “The friendly atmosphere. There were so many times when diners who didn’t know each other ended up clubbing together after dinner. Everyone was just having fun.”
Closing Akanoya was “difficult,” he admits, but practical. “We’d been thinking of moving Akanoya to a smaller space for some time. When the concept of Kamo came along and we couldn’t find a good location for it, it made sense to let it take over the space.”
Kamo’s calm, inviting space
The group spent “around $300K” to set up Kamo, designed to feel stylish yet intimate. Unlike Akanoya’s traditional Japanese wood-accented interiors, Kamo embraces a more modern palette with dusky blue panelled walls, bright vermillion chairs, and golden-edged marble tables.
There’s a private room that seats 12 for intimate gatherings, while the open kitchen and long bar near the entrance showcase house-fermented sauces and pickles. Diners can request counter seating for a front-row view of the action.
Not London Fat Duck V2
Interestingly, Kamo wasn’t initially conceptualised as a London Fat Duck spin-off. The idea took shape organically from a single dish.
“It all began when our chefs created a braised duck recipe that really impressed us,” Wesley shares. “We saw a lot of potential in it and started thinking – why not build something around this?”
That led to R&D trips to China, where the team explored regional Chinese dishes to round out the menu. The result: a contemporary Chinese restaurant with duck in the spotlight, but with enough variety to please most diners — including seafood, meats, and dim sum.
At the moment, there are no plans to expand Kamo as a full-fledged restaurant brand. “We want to keep Kamo as the only outlet, and maybe open a smaller shop or restaurant just for braised duck,” he says.
Braised duck with a Japanese twist
“We use kombu (Japanese kelp) to add depth and umami to the braising liquid, and Japanese soy sauce for a richer flavour,” explains Wesley. “But it will still taste familiar, like local braised duck, as we also have the classic elements like five spice.”
The sauce leans on the thinner, lighter side. “It lets the richness of the duck come through without feeling heavy,” he adds.
Premium Irish ducks, prized for their higher fat content and tender, juicy meat, are used here — the same kind you’d find at London Fat Duck. “Our techniques help the flavours really penetrate the meat,” says Wesley. The Signature Braised Duck is priced at $58 for half and $108 for a whole duck, with optional toppings like Braised Taupok, Ajitama Egg, and Peanuts at $2 each, and Dashi Congee at $3.
These prices are in the same range as Paradise Teochew, a fine-dining Chinese restaurant known for its own version of braised Irish duck at $55 for half and $108 for whole. While Paradise Teochew leans traditional, Kamo offers a more relaxed experience. “We’re not trying to be fine-dining,” Wesley clarifies. “It’s slightly upscale, but ultimately we want it to be comfortable, with service that’s on par with finer restaurants.
Beyond the signature dish, there’s also Wagyu Grade Roast Duck ($53 for half, $98 for full) and London Peking Duck ($78 per portion). Both are made with the same Irish ducks and recipes used at London Fat Duck. However, prices here are noticeably higher – by comparison, the roast duck at LFD is priced at $41 for half and $78 for a whole duck, while its Peking duck goes for $53.80 per portion.
Wesley attributes the difference to the elevated experience at Kamo. “Kamo’s setting in a hotel offers a curated dining experience. The elegant decor and hushed surroundings are also factored into the price. Apart from that, there are other costs that make the dishes slightly more expensive. For example, the chefs and service staff are trained to attend to well-heeled customers.”
As for why the braised duck commands a higher price tag than its roasted counterpart, Wesley says it’s due to the cost of the braising liquid. “The concentration of aged Japanese soy and the amount of ingredients we use contribute significantly to the cost.”
So far, diners seem to think it’s worth it. “Feedback for the braised duck has been great so far — no comments on the price, but many were happy or impressed,” he adds.
For something more casual, duck also features in dishes like Duck Fried Rice (from $18) and Braised Duck Rice Noodle Roll (from $12).
Modern takes
While Kamo’s name and signature braised duck nod to its Japanese inspiration, the rest of the menu ventures beyond.
One example is their Crystal Prawn Dumpling with Clam Sauce ($12 for four), a reimagined har gow (shrimp dumpling). Instead of the usual pleated, crescent shape, Kamo serves plump, spherical prawn dumplings nestled in clam shells, topped with a briny clam sauce. “Everyone already has their favourite har gow,” Wesley laughs. “We just wanted to offer something different.”
Other dishes offer luxe takes on familiar Chinese favourites, like the Braised Elephant Fish Fin with Crab Roe ($68) – a sustainable alternative to shark’s fin that still delivers the same gelatinous texture, layered with rich crab roe.
Even dessert gets an inventive twist: Steamed Orh Nee ($14), a classic Teochew yam paste made silkier with a drizzle of duck fat for added depth.
Kamo by London Fat Duck is at #01-01A, Orchard Rendezvous Hotel, 1 Tanglin Rd, S247905. Open daily noon-3pm & 6-10pm. Tel: 9695 4124. More info via Instagram.
Photos: Kamo by London Fat Duck
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