Two-month-old Keong Saik Bakery offers contemporary interpretations of French-Japanese pastries using traditional Singaporean flavours and ingredients. Like this Chendol Delight ($6.50), a lightly flavoured cake layered with red beans and pandan jelly worms (not bad, but we prefer the other bakes — see pic #5).
The seemingly nondescript Keong Saik Bakery offers surprisingly elegant local renditions of western desserts and drinks.
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Fabulous Baker Boys
It is owned by Tan Yuzhong (right in pic) and Ng Beng Soon, both 29. The men met while working at Baker & Cook in 2013 and teamed up earlier this year to live out their dream of starting a bakery. Beng Soon was part of the team that opened Japanese bakery Asanoya in Singapore in 2014, and his expertise in Japanese baking techniques shows in the light, airy doughs like the Sor Hei (see pic #4). Yuzhong, meanwhile, has come up with some ethereally lovely cakes in local flavours.
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No-Frills, Old-World Charm
To pay homage to the street it sits along, the simply appointed cafe is adorned with historical information and pictures of Keong Saik’s past. Interestingly, the unit is rented from a lady whose adoptive mother and grandmother were both majies. Majies are Chinese female domestic helpers between the 1930s and 1970s who devoted their lives to serving the families they work for and remained unmarried.
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Sor Hei, $3.20
An edible ode to the majie. This charcoal and chocolate chip Danish pastry is a nod to the ‘sor hei’ (hair-combing) ceremony, where a majie takes a vow of celibacy before an altar, and promises never to marry. To seal the vow, her hair would be coiled up in a bun, signalling her future as a lifelong spinster. Well, the inky orb does look kinda like an ah mah’s hair bun. The milky threads of the light, buttery pastry are mildly sweet — like a cross between a croissant and fluffy bread. We love the contrast of the lightly caramelised, crisp exteriors and lush insides, but it could use some extra chocolate chips for better flavour.
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Gula Java Sticky Rice, $6
It’s hard to imagine that a dessert with sticky rice could be this delicate. Layers of the lightest genoise (French-style) sponge, coconut fresh cream, and sticky rice sweetened with gula Java (the Indonesian answer to gula melaka), are crowned with chewy cubes of nata de coco. We know. It sounds bizarre. But it is truly inventive, and most importantly — it tastes absolutely divine.
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Lucy, $6
Named after Yuzhong’s girlfriend’s mum because he made it for her birthday earlier this year (sar kah, lah), Lucy comprises layers of super light pandan cheesecake, a gently flavoured maple ganache and luscious soybean mousse. Every component is lightly flavoured, yet it all comes together harmoniously, each flavour familiar and comforting. How could Aunty Lucy not be impressed?
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Figs Campagne Mini with Cream Cheese, $3.50
We love the fine texture of this light sourdough loaf. Its friable crust gives way to a tender, supple dough with just the barest tang. The bits of figs and rich cream cheese imbue it with the mild sweetness it needs. Ask for it to be toasted for the best texture.
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Nanyang Coffee, $2.80
Local kopi made the ang moh way. The strong kopitiam-style roasted robusta beans are freshly ground for every cup, brewed with an espresso machine, then paired with both frothed fresh milk and a bit of condensed milk. Rich and deeply flavored, without being acidic.
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Bottom Line
The simple, nostalgic setting belies the finesse behind the pastries here, which mix local flavours with French and Japanese techniques in the most original ways. We like the cheap and cheerful prices, too.
41 Keong Saik Rd, S089146. Open daily except alternate Mon. 8am-8pm. Last orders 8pm. (No phone number). www.facebook.com/keongsaikbakery
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