Cheap, Good & ‘Ulu’: A JB Local’s Guide To The Best Seafood Restaurants You Probably Haven’t Discovered Yet

Here’s a list of atmospheric, “ulu” (remote) seafood restaurants around Johor. 

Almost all Chinese-run seafood restaurants in Johor are “Muslim-friendly”, meaning they use no pork or lard, though those conscious of this requirement might want to skip smaller establishments like You Kee and Sin Kong. 

Their bigger Sungai Rengit neighbours, such as Jade Garden and Super Lobster on this list, see regular Malay-Muslim government officials and businessmen having lunch and dinner there.

Finally, we’ve included a rough price guide with each listing, from $ for the cheapest options to $$$ for the priciest.

Jade Garden Seafood Corner

Price estimate: $$$

Sungai Rengit, also fondly known as “Lobster Village”, was once a popular destination for cyclists from Singapore who’d hop on a bumboat from Changi Village to Tanjung Pengelih and bike to Rengit. The bumboats and the idyllic Pengerang coast are history now, alas, thanks to the construction of Malaysia’s largest petrochemical complex, which began in 2013.

Lobster Village has nevertheless survived, and its dozen or so seafood restaurants have somewhat thrived. The departure of construction crews with the refinery complex’s completion in 2018 has allowed Sungei Rengit to settle back into its sleepy rhythms. The post-COVID revival of Desaru, 30 minutes north by road, has brought tourists back to the village.

The most successful of Rengit’s seafood eateries has been Jade Garden, which moved from its original shophouse/backyard spot to its new location on the water, standing on unromantic concrete stilts. Its reputation is still as high as ever. Besides its signature lobster in superior broth, you can ask for its off-menu Marmite lobster, which only locals and regulars know about.

Super Lobster Restaurant

Price estimate: $$$

A strong rival of Jade Garden’s is Super Lobster Restaurant. Its S-tier Google user rating may warrant some scepticism, but its murals boasting of celebrity visitors (mostly Channel 8 stars) are bona fide proof – as are the impressive array of cooking competition certificates of its executive chef.

This Sungai Rengit stalwart similarly got its start around Jalan Kerisi and now occupies a new shophouse block right at the entrance to the village. Despite its more modern appearance, Super Lobster (like Jade Garden) still has local supporters and still draws crowds for weekday lunches. Befitting its name, the restaurant goes all out in its variety of lobster offerings with around a dozen different preparations, such as red wine, salted egg and good ol’ butter.

7,9 and 11, Jalan Jenahak, Kampung Sungai Rengit, 81600 Pengerang

You Kee and Sing Kong

Price estimate: $

If you fancy something much more rustic (and slightly cheaper) in Sungai Rengit, there’s You Kee and Sin Kong on Jalan Kerisi, which is where Jade Garden originally stood.

The former is fondly remembered by my family, immortalised by an amused uncle posing with their sign promising diners an “air conditional” dining environment. That signboard is long gone but their new ones, in truly Malaysian fashion, welcome you to either “Youu Kee” or “You Kees”. 

Sin Kong across the sleepy lane similarly endures as a regular dinner spot for locals.

You Kee: 55, Jalan Kerisi, Kampung Sungai Rengit, 81600 Pengerang; Sin Kong: 9, Jalan Kerisi, Kampung Sungai Rengit, 81600 Pengerang

Kedai Makan Simpang Arang

Price estimate: $

This little-known gem, well hidden in far west Johor, is culturally significant as one of the last remaining enclaves of our region’s indigenous orang laut (sea people).

Kampung Simpang Arang is one of a few villages north of the Johor Straits that’s still home to the Orang Seletar, who were displaced by the clearing of Singapore’s mangrove coasts in the second half of the 20th century. Prior to their arrival, the Malay hamlet provided refuge to Chinese Malaysians during the Japanese occupation during World War II.

It’s a unique cultural blend that’s being studied by academics and government agencies, particularly as Simpang Arang is hemmed in by Forest City Golf Resort on the west (which has restricted its river access to the sea) and a tech park to the east that has seen a dozen data centres erected in the past couple of years (which will likely double within the next few).

The village is a short 15-minute drive from Gelang Patah on narrow lanes. Simpang Arang isn’t particularly picturesque, but Kedai Makan Simpang Arang is clean, airy, and supports this precariously placed community. It certainly helps that the restaurant serves great fare with, in my book, the highest stamp of approval – on my last visit there with family, my nephew was gobsmacked by how much chilli crab his 80-year-old grandpa managed to put away.

Go have a great meal there. Then maybe read up a bit and think about how we can craft a more sustainable future, with love.

25, 81550 Gelang Patah, Johor Darul Ta'zim, Malaysia

Chua Kee and Tian Lai

Price estimate: $$

Most Singaporeans already know of these two rustic Gelang Patah legends – they’ll make the short trip here if they’re in Legoland or Medini – but they warrant their inclusion for JB visitors who don’t usually go west out of downtown.

Situated in the old, original downtown of Gelang Patah by the bus terminal, Chua Kee is slightly more popular and always packed on evenings. You’ll never have to wait for a table, though, with its spacious dining area. 

Just 300m down the road is Tian Lai, which has expanded in recent years with branches in Bukit Indah and Taman Abad (near KSL). While he enjoys Chua Kee, my fussy-eater nephew prefers Tian Lai’s chilli crab sauce – which he’ll sop up with half a dozen mantou (baked buns) – and the steamed fish.

Often it comes down to who’s open on the day that’ll decide where we’ll feast when in Gelang Patah – Chua Kee closes on Mondays, Tian Lai takes its weekly break on Wednesdays.

Chua Kee: Jalan Kacang Panjang, Gelang Patah, 81550 Gelang Patah; Tian Lai: 158 Jalan Leong Bee, Gelang Patah, 81550 Johor Bahru

Alam Seafood and Mutiara Biru

Price estimate: $

Kampung Sungai Tenom, another orang asli (aboriginal people) village, is far more accessible if you don’t have the time to venture too far from downtown JB. The village has a clear view of Danga Bay’s high-rise condominiums to the east and Kranji in Singapore across the Straits.

Alam Seafood Restaurant is the first you’ll come upon on the left and has the best ambience, and is airily cool on hot afternoons. The resident cats are chill as well, even with curious toddlers. Mutiara Biru, just next door, is a larger establishment sitting on concrete stilts over the water and sees larger crowds, particularly during dinnertime.

Kampung Sungai Tenom, Sungai Danga, Kampung Sungai Temon, 81200 Johor Bahru