12 Of JB's Most Old-School Kopitiams, Ranked

We’ve rated 12 notable heritage kopitiams (a couple not technically old but retro-style) on four criteria. The first two - kopi and food - are straightforward. Ambience covers the comfort and cleanliness of the space. Finally, we're going with “ah pek-ticity”, a nod to ah peks (literally "old uncle" in Hokkien), which refers to gritty authenticity, whether there are genuine old artefacts and if old-timers still frequent the shop.

Time for a road trip, before the hassle of applying for the reportedly hard-to-book Vehicle Entry Permit (VEP) begins from October 1.

Hua Mui

This JB institution is the sort of muhibbah (Malay for “goodwill”) kopitiam catering to all ethnicities and is becoming increasingly rare. There’s laksa, mee mamak, sandwiches and their signature Hainanese chicken chop. Founded in 1946, Hua Mui was a favourite of British colonial civil servants working on Bukit Timbalan nearby. These days, well-heeled tourists outnumber ah peks, so points off for “ah pek-ticity”. It started expanding in 2007 and now has four other branches.

Kopi: 9/10 Food: 7/10 Ambience: 9/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 5/10

Overall: 7.5/10

131 Jalan Trus, Bandar Johor Bahru, 80000 Johor Bahru. Open daily from 8am to 5pm except public holidays.

Kin Hua

Near Hua Mui is its no-frills counterpoint, Kin Hua. It’s a popular breakfast spot among locals for its kopi and half-boiled kampung eggs (in a saucer, naturally). Grab-and-go ready nasi lemak and mee siam packets await office workers in a hurry, and seating is limited in this accessible but small corner kopitiam facing famed bakery Hiap Joo.

Kopi: 8/10 Food: 6/10 Ambience: 7/10

Ah pek-ticity: 7/10

Overall: 7/10

8 Jalan Trus, Bandar Johor Bahru, 80000 Johor Bahru. Opens daily 5.30am to 5pm. Closed Tue.

Seng Huat

Located at the foot of Jalan Kebun Teh Lama, Seng Huat is close to downtown but away from other built-up areas and has limited parking. Savvy locals and Singaporeans, however, still head here for the famed RSX Fish Noodles with sea bass.

Kopi: 6/10 Food: 8/10 Ambience: 10/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 7/10

Overall: 7.75/10

Jalan Kebun Teh Lama, Larkin, 80300 Johor Bahru. Open daily 7.30am to 5pm. Closed Sun.

Kedai Kopi Gao Deng

The delightful enclave of kopitiams and old shops on Jalan Kilang Nenas (“pineapple factory road”) once served Lee Pineapple workers before the factory closed last December – the business founded by Singapore’s Lee Kong Chian in 1931 is moving on to other interests.

Thankfully, the kopitiams still thrive, and the vibe can’t be beaten. Kedai Kopi Gao Deng positively buzzes during breakfast. A Hakka stall serves up abacus seeds and one of JB’s best lei cha (thunder tea rice). There’s also a you tiao stall that sells out by 9am (call 018-971-2668 for reservations).

Kopi: 6/10 Food: 8/10 Ambience: 8/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 8/10

Overall: 7.5/10

1 & 2 Jalan Kilang Nenas, Taman Sutera Utama, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Open 5.30am to 5pm on Mon, Tue & Fri. Till 6.55pm on Wed & weekends. Closed Thur.

Kopitiam DS

Just down the row from Gao Deng is the larger Kopitiam DS with great coffee. The toast and eggs here are loved by customers and there’s also good roast meat, char kway teow and roti canai.

Kopi: 7/10 Food: 8/10 Ambience: 7/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 8/10

Overall: 7.5/10

12, 13,14 Jalan Kilang Nenas, Taman Sutera Utama, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Open daily 6am to 11pm.

Lar Kopi

Part of a new wave of retro Nanyang kopitiams with curated nostalgic decor, Lar Kopi’s coffee is outstanding and extremely popular among locals. In true muhibbah kopitiam tradition, Lar Kopi’s offerings include lei cha, roti canai and mee siam. The peanut porridge is exceptional. Take note though – it’s a challenge to get here in congested Nusa Bestari.

Kopi: 10/10 Food: 9/10 Ambience: 8/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 5/10

Overall: 8/10

2 Jalan Putra 1, Taman Tan Sri Yaacob, 81300 Skudai, Johor. Open daily 7.30am to 4.30pm. Closed Mon.

Wee Hoi

This stubbornly old-school Gelang Patah fixture has changed little in its 80-plus years, and that’s part of its appeal. Wee Hoi recently took over the neighbouring shop but patrons still crowd the original, rustic space. Some old-time regulars grumble that the kopi quality has dipped recently but they still return.

Wee Hoi encourages gotong royong (communal spirit) - outside food is not just allowed but welcomed here, so go ahead and order chicken rice from the restaurant opposite or curry yong tau foo from around the corner. Regulars are also happy to share their table and food tips. It is also one of a few pick-up points for Gelang Patah’s legendary homemade paus; they sell out within minutes of delivery around 12.30pm, so early birds chope (reserve) or call ahead.

Kopi: 6/10 Food: 6/10 Ambience: 5/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 9/10

Overall: 6.5/10

6 Jalan Kacang Panjang, Gelang Patah, 81550 Gelang Patah, Johor. Open 6am to 5pm daily. Closed Thur.

Sunshine Kopitiam

The thick-sliced toast here has long inspired locals to make long morning drives from across town to JB’s northeast. Sunshine used to occupy a huge industrial estate-style canteen before moving down the road in December 2019 to a smaller space, so some old-world charm has been lost. The kopi and food are still worth the journey, thankfully.

Kopi: 8/10 Food: 9/10 Ambience: 6/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 4/10

Overall: 6.75/10

1 Jalan Beladau 19, Taman Puteri Wangsa, 81800 Ulu Tiram, Johor. Open 7am to 4pm daily except Wed.

Oriental Kopi@Johor Jaya

While not exactly a heritage eatery, retro-themed Oriental Kopi’s coffee and food, particularly its famed egg tarts, are exceptional. So much so that snaking queues can be seen outside its three JB mall outlets in Mid Valley Southkey, JBCC and Aeon Tebrau. Born in Selangor just three years ago, the nationwide chain will go international soon with an outlet in Singapore, its 15th in total.

Their Johor Jaya branch, the only one in JB not in a mall, is your best bet at beating the queues. Needless to say, it’s a curated experience that’s far from gritty.

Kopi: 10/10 Food: 10/10 Ambience: 8/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 2/10

Overall: 7.5/10

30 Jalan Dedap 22, Taman Johor Jaya, 81100 Johor Bahru. Open daily 7.30am to 8.30pm.

Tai Chiang

Hidden away in a back row of shophouses is the gem of north JB, specifically in Saleng, between Senai and Kulai. Tai Chiang’s coffee, from beans personally roasted by the owner and strained old-school style through a “sock”, makes a strong claim to be JB’s best while the toast and kaya are also popular.

Many diners order their char kway teow from an outside stall before getting a table. The kopitiam has been around since 1970 and recently tidied up its interior. It faces west, making the outdoor tables a lovely breakfast spot.

Kopi: 10/10 Food: 7/10 Ambience: 7/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 9/10

Overall: 8.25/10

7 Jalan Jelawat, Taman Sri Saleng, 81400 Kulai, Johor. Opens from 7am to 2pm and closes on Tuesdays.

Min Kee

In the heart of old Senai, near the former main artery out of JB before the North-South Highway took over, Min Kee stands out in a row of several old kopitiams. Foodies have been coming here for decades as some say its laksa is among Malaysia’s best. Get a table inside and be willing to share with fellow diners as the outdoor tables bake in the morning sun despite the blinds (or go really early to avoid the crowds and sun).

Kopi: 7/10 Food: 9/10 Ambience: 3/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 8/10

Overall: 6.75/10

11-2 Jalan Senai 10, Lorong, 1, Kampung Baru Senai, 81400 Senai, Johor. Open 5am to 2pm except Wed.

Kim Wah

Sitting right on Skudai Highway, 100 metres from Min Kee, is the landmark kopitiam Kim Wah. The kopi is of the lighter white coffee variety and decent, as is the char kway teow stall just outside, but the chief reason to visit this honourable mention is nostalgia. The interior of Kim Wah is wonderfully make-do Malaysian. The kitchen is partly under a makeshift mezzanine, resulting in a doorway with 1.75m clearance (including the Chinese New Year banner still hanging over). On a wall is the remains of a booth providing bench seating for a table. The regulars complete the tableau for maximum ah pek vibes.

Kopi: 5/10 Food: 4/10 Ambience: 4/10

Ah Pek-ticity: 10/10

Overall: 5.75/10

1 Jalan Senai 10, Kampung Baru Senai, 81400 Senai, Johor. Open 6.30am to 7.30pm daily.

JB old-school kopitiams ranked

1. Tai Chiang: 8.25
2. Lar Kopi: 8
3. Seng Huat: 7.75
4. Hua Mui: 7.5
5. Gao Deng: 7.5
6. Kopitiam DS: 7.5
7. Oriental Kopi (Johor Jaya): 7.5
8. Kin Hua: 7
9. Sunshine: 6.75
10. Min Kee: 6.75
11. Wee Hoi: 6.5
12. Kim Wah: 5.75

Source: CNA/mm

The original version of this story first appeared in CNA Dining.

Photos: David Ngiau

For more CNA Lifestyle stories, visit https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/.