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Kueh Pulau Pinang, a pancake stall in a quiet kopitiam at Buangkok Crescent, is an exercise in retro charm. Red-and-blue font spell out the shop’s name and min jiang kueh-style fillings in Malay and Mandarin only. Stacked packets of Del Monte creamed corn count as makeshift decor.

A spry, impressively jacked Teo Ah Bee, 72, mans a pair of electric griddles while his 70-year-old wife, Lee Gay Lee, packs and doles out the pancakes (she delivers it to your seat if you’re dining in). She helps him with order management as well – “they want two peanut [pancakes],” she says in Teochew while poking his elbow. They’ve been selling the pancakes for “one-year plus” while steadily building up a base of regular customers.

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