In a sleepy section of Bedok South Food Centre, a queue forms under the glow of a yellow signboard. The Pancake Garden’s freshly-made min jiang kueh is the attraction here, with eager punters waiting for the next batch of pancakes. Believed to have originated in Fujian province, China, this breakfast favourite consists of a thickish pancake folded over ground peanuts, red bean paste or coconut shavings.

Thirty-year-old hawker Joseph is deft with his actions, spreading batter over three cast iron griddles simultaneously while preparing the fillings. He pauses to catch up with a regular customer while keeping an eye on the almost-ready min jiang kuehs. His multi-tasking ability reminds us of the popular console game, Overcooked. Any slip-up would mean starting over again and testing the patience of an already snaking queue. But he takes it in his stride, working with the precision of a true artisan.

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