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Clad in a hair net, baggy T-shirt and plastic apron as she bustles around a cramped stall in an industrial estate canteen, you’d never guess that Kerene Cheng, 46, once headed three fine-dining dim sum kitchens — including the glamorous Shang Palace at Shangri-La hotel. But since two months ago, she has become a hawker of dim sum stall Cheong Fan Paradise in Ang Mo Kio Industrial Park 2. The affable chef handles all of the cooking herself — which includes handmade-to-order plates of Cantonese-style chee cheong fun — while her 56-year-old business partner and longtime friend, Mable Ng, serves.

Note: This story has been updated to reflect that not all the chee cheong fun here are handmade, unlike what was initially communicated to us by the owner.

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