There used to be a hawker stall at Berseh Food Centre in Jalan Besar, called One Kueh at a Time. The cramped unit sold only one item: Teochew-style soon kueh (Chinese turnip dumplings), which comes with fillings like turnip, koo chye (Chinese chives) and a mod beetroot. Each soon kueh is handmade by hawker Nick Soon, 52, a staunch Catholic who lovingly rolls and folds each little dumpling while listening to hymns wafting out of a portable radio beside him.

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