New Nasi Lemak Hawker Has Quintessentially S’porean Bromance With Tay Ping Hui & Ix Shen
The trio’s wholesome friendship goes back over 30 years, when they met as models on the job. 8days.sg walks down memory lane with them — and eats a plate of super sedap local boy-cooked nasi lemak at hawker James Ong’s new stall, Straits Club.
Many a Singaporean guy born and raised on our sunny island can attest to having this life trajectory: attend school, serve National Service, join the workforce, meet the girl of their dreams, get married and settle down.
Oh, and meet a bunch of buddies along the way who would become your ride or die.
Sometimes the ‘ride’ is literal, when it comes to the story of how actors Tay Ping Hui, 53, and Ix Shen, 52, became lifelong friends. Back in 1991, the celeb pals were professional models attending a casting call. “We were the only two there carrying motorcycle helmets,” Ix recounts to 8days.sg.
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A very ’90s friendship
They bonded over their common interests like biking. Two years later, a third pal would join their group. James Ong, now 48, was also a model working the same runway shows as Ping Hui and Ix. Ping Hui recalls: “We all had an interest in Chinese tea — yes, Chinese tea — and we liked going to prata shops to look for the perfect plaster prata with the round yolk. We have the same frequency; we like similar things.”
Another favourite activity was playing LAN games together. “We played games like Red Alert and Doom. When we first started hanging out, there were only pagers and coin phones. Then we were forced to update to e-mail, then cellular phones. And now WhatsApp,” says Ix.
Conversations among the three guys, we observe, usually descend into chaotic bro-bickering, guy jokes and the obligatory roasting. “It’s like we are living in different universes and we come together. It’s a multiverse problem,” Ix notes.
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Ping Hui, Ix and James share nostalgic throwback photos of their younger days with 8days.sg exclusively.
Back in the ’90s, when Marina South was a hotspot for steamboat, satay and kite-flying (IYKYK), the trio would hang out there weekly too. “I rode a bike, Ix rode a bike, and James would ride pillion with either of us. We didn’t have a lot of money,” Ping Hui laughs, as Ix adds: “But we made do with our limitations.”
They also gathered at James’ parents’ three-room HDB flat in Henderson for meals. James shares: “My mum is British, but she’s practically Singaporean. My father is Singaporean-Chinese. They met while he was studying in the UK.”
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The boys with James' mum at his home for Christmas lunch (spot a very young Ping Hui and Ix in this photo!)
So it was often four growing boys — James, his brother, Ping Hui and Ix — squeezed around Mrs Ong’s small kitchen table, wolfing down fried chicken. “Food is always at the heart of our gatherings. Nasi lemak is one of the dishes I shared a lot with Ix and Ping at home,” says James.
In one of life’s interesting twists, he is now a nasi lemak hawker running his own stall called Straits Club, which opened just over a week ago at one-north hawker centre Timbre+.
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Sobered by the limitations of the local fashion market, the three pals (who are all over 1.8m-tall) did not continue their modelling career for long. With his studious glasses, James reminds us of both Clark Kent and the 2024 Paris Olympics’ viral ‘Pommel Horse Guy’ Stephen Nedoroscik.
Before becoming a hawker recently, James’ last job was head of transformation for a global bank. He explains: “I was looking after technological integrations. When [the bank] acquires entities, we need to merge the [IT] systems.”
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But the dad-of-three “always daydreamed” about running his own stall. “Like, wouldn’t it be cool if I have a shop? I want to do something with my hands and put a smile on someone’s face when they eat here. When I cook for my family, I get a sense of satisfaction,” James chuckles.
What motivated the self-taught cook to pursue his daydream was the fact that his kids are now grown up. “My oldest daughter is 22, middle son is 20, and the youngest is 18. My oldest is part-timing here. That’s why I can do this,” he shares.
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As for why his stall is named Straits Club, James explains: “Not to poke fun at this ang moh cooking nasi lemak, the name came from those fond memories I have of eating straits-based food like prata and nasi lemak. It’s a homage to our local food and friendships.”
As research, James and his wife Veronica travelled around Asia trying many plates of nasi lemak. “I was blown away by Village Park Restaurant’s nasi lemak [in Kuala Lumpur],” he says.
James’ endgame, he says, is to build his “best version of nasi lemak” and expand Straits Club into a chain. “But I need to get my first stall right. I take a user experience approach to this. All the things I have done in my past job have helped me in this new space. Thinking about how it feels for someone, the taste and texture,” he shares.
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At his own stall, the first-time hawker sticks to a simple menu with just Chicken Nasi Lemak ($8.90) with ayam goreng berempah, and a 5 Piece Chicken Platter ($7). Customers can get add-ons like 1 Piece Chicken ($1.50), Fried Egg ($1.20), Bergedil ($1.20), Achar ($1.20) and caramelised onion Sambal ($1.20).
James also offers a $2.50 top-up for a chicken nasi lemak set meal, which comes with a bergedil plus lime juice or lemongrass beverage of your choice (a la carte drinks are priced at $2.50 a cup).
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Chicken Nasi Lemak, $8.90 (8 Days Pick!)
This is one seriously shiok, elegant plate of nasi lemak, though instead of a whole chicken leg to gnaw on, the ayam goreng berempah is served as petite boneless chunks.
As it turns out, James has designed his nasi lemak UX to cater for his main office crowd customers. He explains: “It’s more impressive and cheaper if I serve a whole leg with bone. But I looked for a supplier who could give me a custom boneless cut so people don’t have to fiddle with the bone. I think about how to make things easier and quicker for the office workers queueing here at lunchtime.”
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The aromatic boneless ayam goreng berempah here is excellent; expertly spiced, marinated with turmeric and curry powder, and fried to a golden-brown finish with crispy crumbs and wispily crunchy curry leaves.
The al-dente rice is cooked with just enough coconut milk for subtle lemak flavour. We found its texture a bit too hard and the coconut fragrance too muted on its own, but it all comes together very nicely when we spike it with sweet caramelised onion sambal (you can ‘supercharge’ your sambal by asking James for his very spicy chilli padi), salted fried peanuts and ikan bilis, plus an add-on jammy-yolked fried egg.
It's worth topping up for the piquant achar and a savoury fried bergedil, and wash the nasi lemak down with iced lemongrass or lime juice. Despite the hawker setting, you get ‘fancier’ ambience at night with a daily live band playing (Straits Club is open till 7pm/8.30pm).
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5 Piece Chicken Platter, $7 (8 Days Pick!)
The same shiok ayam goreng berempah is available as a five-piece side dish, so you can load up on it to your heart’s content.
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Just in time for this shoot, Ping Hui came back from filming upcoming drama Contenders in Malaysia. Kyiv-based Ix is back for two months from Ukraine, where he lives with his Ukrainian wife, to promote the Chinese language launch of his book Impressions of an Invasion: A Correspondent in Ukraine about the Russia-Ukraine war.
Serving bro duty as guinea pigs for James’ nasi lemak R&D are Ping Hui and Ix. “He would invite us to his house, where there were four versions of his fried chicken,” says Ping Hui. “There would be an online survey afterwards, and we’d all have arguments over the results,” Ix shares. “Sometimes quite heated,” notes Ping Hui dryly.
James reckons that Ix and Ping Hui are “some of my harshest critics”. He adds: “Ix will bring in geography — he’d talk about the different flavour profiles for nasi lemak from the region and Ping breaks down the flavours.”
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No FOMO for a bro: James and Ix 'bring' Ping Hui along on their holiday.
When we ask Ping Hui and Ix if they had ever expected James to become a hawker, both shake their heads. “Not a hawker,” says Ix. “Maybe a restaurateur,” Ping Hui interjects thoughtfully. “I thought James was crazy, but he told us why he was doing this. He was always the best chef among the three of us, and cooking is his love language. Ix was more sceptical.”
Ix pipes up: “We understand that his job in finance was very stressful. It was not the toughness [of being a hawker] that we were worried about. We know James can take tough.”
But he couldn’t resist joking: “For us, it was a more selfish reason. James would always cook feasts for us when we gathered at his house. If he’s too tired from work, he might lose his touch!"
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Vacationing 'together': Despite distance and busy schedules, the trio stayed in touch.
According to Ix and Ping Hui, James “is the one closing the loop for our experience in F&B”. Before winning Star Search in 1995, a teenage Ix had worked stints at Burger King and as a banquet waiter at the Mandarin Oriental hotel. After serving his NS, he took up a job as a photojournalist for the Singapore Press Holdings. “I had to shoot food too, so I know how this works,” Ix grins.
Meanwhile, a pre-showbiz stardom 25-year-old Ping Hui worked as a general manager for Subway. On hand to help (and to troll) was his buddy James, who cheekily recalls: “I helped him distribute flyers. At Orchard Towers! I advertised the length of the sandwiches to people. Hahaha. How many inches you want? Go tell my friend Ping!”
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Ping Hui and James in the '90s.
How to keep a bromance alive
It’s not every day that a hawker has two household names showing up to lend their support for his new business. “We’re not here to steal the limelight,” Ix jokes.
According to Ping Hui, doing this 8days.sg shoot together with his two longtime bros is the highest point of their friendship. “It’s an accumulation of all the years of us being friends. No matter what we do, we are here to support one another,” he says.
And the lowest point of their bromance? “It was around 10, 15 years ago when we all had our own things to deal with and we weren’t in contact as much. But when we came together, we took off again,” he reveals.
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James, Ping Hui and Ix on the Great Wall of China.
Staying friends for over 30 years is a feat in itself, especially when everyone is constantly shuttling around different countries, we point out. Ping Hui responds: “Fundamentally, we keep in touch whenever we can. For a period of time, Ix was based in China. We even visited him in Beijing. Even if we don’t meet so often, when we meet it’s always quality time.”
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Ix shares: “We have been through life long enough to know what relationships should be like. Hi and bye is an insult. I would rather take a long detour [to avoid someone] than to just say hi and bye to them. Some friends are easier to keep in touch with because everyone makes an effort.”
Ping Hui agrees: “I think all friendships should be like that. We don’t need to know all the details of each other’s lives, and we don’t get upset if James doesn’t do what we want him to do. ’Cos we respect his decisions. I know James. He’s the kind of guy who would take a knife for me.”
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"Give us your best blue steel look leh," said our videographer. Did these former models bring it?
Their bromance runs so deep, the trio even envision one another in their retirement plans. “We are looking for that mythical village where we can all retire together,” quips Ix. “We have spoken about it,” says Ping Hui, adding: “I have a feeling that in our later years we will go back to being three guys having a cup of teh tarik. It doesn’t have to be complicated.”
Straits Club is at #01-01 Timbre+, 73A Ayer Rajah Crescent, S139957. Open weekdays, Mon-Wed 11am-7.30pm, Thu & Fri 11am-8.30pm. GrabFood delivery available. www.instagram.com/straitsclub
Photos: Dillon Tan
No part of this story or photos can be reproduced without permission from 8days.sg.
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