Frustrated By Some Mediocre Japanese Hawker Stalls in S’pore, Osaka Chef Opens Stall Selling Fab Mentaiko Mayo Katsu

He later took the helm at Torimaro Charcoal Grill & Sake Bar, an izakaya in Novena, but was let go last August after a change in management.

“I wanted to open an izakaya, but the cost was too high,” he tells 8days.sg in hesitant English. Instead, he started small, partnering with a Singaporean investor to put in a five-figure sum to launch Haru-Haru in October 2024, a Japanese food stall in Bras Basah’s food court.

Katsu and mentaiko top two dishes at his old restaurant jobs

Rather than izakaya-style fare, Haruyama chose to focus on dishes he knows Singaporeans love: katsu topped with mentaiko (spicy cod roe) mayonnaise. “Katsu and mentaiko were always the top two [items at my old jobs]. Singaporeans really like both, so I thought of putting them together,” he says.

Haru-Haru offers rice bowls topped with crisp, golden katsu – choose from pork, chicken, salmon, or prawn – each slathered with creamy mentaiko mayo. These rice sets are also available with Japanese curry for those who prefer a saucier option, and a newly introduced udon menu for noodle lovers.

Motivated to open own katsu stall ’cos of poor quality at some local joints

Haruyama was also driven by a personal gripe – his frustration with what he sees as the poor quality of katsu at some local hawker joints. “They buy sauces from suppliers. They don’t fry to order. Some use frozen [ready-to-cook] cutlets. Some use dry panko, which is not as crispy as nama panko,” he rattles off.

Nama panko, he explains, is made from fresh bread like shokupan (Japanese milk bread) and has a lighter, coarser texture that creates a crispier, more delicate crust when deep-fried. It’s a key ingredient he insists on using at Haru-Haru.

He’s also particular about offering better value. “Except for a few places run by Japanese chef-owners, I feel a lot of Japanese restaurants here don’t give enough value for the price,” he says. That’s why he makes it a point to do things properly at his stall: US pork loin for the tonkatsu, all sauces made from scratch, every cutlet fried to order, and a generous drizzle of house-made mentaiko mayo on top. 

That said, he knows when to bend the rules. Haruyama sheepishly admits you probably won’t find mentai pork katsu drenched in curry anywhere in Japan. “It’s not something we eat there,” he laughs.

All that care and attention to detail means prices are a little steeper than your usual food court fare – his signature Mentai Pork Katsu Don goes for $9.90, while the curry version costs $10.90.

Happier as a hawker than restaurant chef

Despite the humble setting of a food court stall, Haruyama carries himself with the quiet precision of a restaurant chef. His shoulder-length hair is neatly held back with a headband, while noise-cancelling earbuds hang around his neck. He plates each bowl with care, using mini tongs to gently place each garnish.

Asked if he misses his old job, where he held fancy titles like general manager and head chef, Haruyama chuckles while shaking his head. “I had to take care of everything,” he says, referring to the small teams of four to five staff at his previous restaurants. “Front of house, back of house… all also my problem.”

He adds that while the pay was comfortable – “the salary was not bad because I’m a Japanese chef,” he says, declining to share exact figures – it came with a lot of stress and responsibility.

These days, he’s actually happier running a hawker stall, even if the menu at Haru-Haru is relatively extensive. “No need to worry about managing the whole restaurant,” he sums up.

Still, it’s not without challenges. “At an izakaya, sometimes customers come back because of the good service or atmosphere. But here, the food quality has to be nice for them to come back,” he says. That’s why he’s hands-on at the stall every day, cooking and overseeing operations himself. Even with two to three part-timers helping out, he admits it’s tough to train staff to meet his standards.

Putting down roots in Singapore

Haruyama has been working in F&B since he was 18, training at various restaurants in Osaka. Ever since he was in high school, the chef had always dreamed of working overseas. When the opportunity to move to Singapore came up in 2016, he jumped at it.

Now, nearly a decade later, he’s looking to put down roots for good. Haruyama and his Malaysian homemaker wife are raising their four-year-old son in Singapore. “My wife wants him to study in Singapore. We feel it’s a good place for him to grow up,” he says, adding that he’s currently applying for permanent residency.

As for life here? “People always complain it’s hot, but actually it’s hotter in Japan [during summer],” he laughs. “I like how small Singapore is. It’s more convenient – you don’t have to travel far.”

Plans to open more branches

So far, business at Haru-Haru has been steady – the stall serves around 100 portions on average daily. On weekdays, the crowd is mostly office workers popping by for a quick lunch, while students from nearby schools visit during dinner hours. Weekends are when families tend to show up.

Interestingly, there aren’t that many Japanese customers. “Local customers are usually curious when they realise I’m Japanese,” Haruyama says. “It gives them more confidence in my food.”

While some were initially hesitant about the steeper-than-usual prices at a food court, most end up returning after giving it a try. “They say, ‘Oh, it’s good,’ and they come back,” he shares.

Encouraged by the response, Haruyama hopes to open one to two more Haru-Haru hawker outlets in the future. “Actually, I want to offer more Japanese dishes beyond just katsu,” he shares. “If we have enough capital, I still hope to open an izakaya one day.”

Mentai Pork Katsu Don, $9.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Crunchy on the outside and tender within, there’s an airy crispness to the tonkatsu that is noticeably lighter and more textured than regular hawker versions. Our leftover tonkatsu remains crispy even as a takeaway. The generous drizzle of house-made mentaiko mayo adds a creamy, umami punch that elevates the bowl. Served on fluffy, sticky Japanese pearl rice with crunchy picked daikon for balance. A must try.

Truffle Sauce Pork Katsu Don, $9.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

While the mentaiko mayo version is more aesthetically pleasing, this alternative is equally tasty. A savoury house-made pork-based gravy infused with truffle oil coats the katsu, lending a fragrant, earthy richness that pairs beautifully with the fried pork cutlet. Hearty and indulgent – a solid choice for truffle fans.

Mentai Premium Pork Katsu Curry, $14.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

If you’re willing to spend a little more, go for the premium US loin cut – it’s noticeably more tender and juicy, with just the right amount of fat to keep the meat moist and flavourful. The Japanese curry is thick and rich, with good savoury depth and a hint of sweetness. However, the bold, aromatic gravy does overpower the subtler mentaiko sauce – best to enjoy separately to savour each component fully.

Mentai Ebi Fry Don, $12.90

Three plump tiger prawns are battered and deep-fried till crisp, and again slathered with that addictive mentaiko mayo. While tasty, we found ourselves missing the meaty satisfaction of the pork cutlet. Go for this lighter option if you’re a staunch seafood lover.

Mentai Inaniwa Onsen Egg Udon, $8.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

Served warm, the Inaniwa udon – a thinner, flatter variety of noodle from the Akita Prefecture – is delightfully smooth and silky. Coated in a creamy, savoury mentaiko sauce that’s rich yet surprisingly light on the palate, and topped with a perfectly jiggly onsen egg that melts into the sauce for extra indulgence.

Add-on: Chicken Karaage (2 pcs), $3

A solid side if you want extra protein with your noodles. The house-made karaage comes in hefty chunks, seasoned with a nice peppery kick. Not the juiciest we’ve had, but they deliver enough crunch and flavour as an additional topping.

The details

Haru-Haru is at #01-79 Bras Basah Complex, 231 Bain St, S180231. Open daily 11am - 9.30pm. More info via Facebook & Instagram.

Photos: Dillon Tan

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