Ex-Naked Finn Chef Opens Fish Soup Stall, But His Signboard Is Concealed In Red Cloth

Wan Fong brings with him serious culinary cred, having spent over a decade at the acclaimed seafood restaurant in Gillman Barracks. His resume also includes stints at Equinox restaurant at Swissotel and RWS's Osia Steak and Seafood Grill.

Why he sold his share in his first hawker biz

Despite the successful launch of Qing Feng Yuan, Wan Fong sold his share of the hawker business to his partner a year after opening. "It’s a small stall, so one boss will do," he explains pragmatically in a mix of English and Mandarin.

Wan Fong reveals that the business was profitable — they managed to recoup their investment within six months. 

"For a small hawker stall, it's difficult to support two bosses with high salaries," he adds. The pair had hired two staff to help, and as they reviewed their finances, they agreed this wasn't sustainable.

The sale wasn't due to any bad blood between the partners, he asserts. "We’re still good friends. We have had our arguments but we dont fight or get angry, we just find solutions." In fact, his former biz partner visited Wan Fong's new stall just hours before our interview, highlighting their continued friendship despite the biz separation.

Rather than adjusting their partnership percentages or opening a second stall, they chose a clean break. “We decided to be straightforward, you buy me or I buy you out,” said Wan Fong. Since the hawker stall was under his partner’s name, Wan Fong sold his share for around $20K, which included "equipment, recipes and everything there," he tells 8days.sg.

Why he returned to Naked Finn

Interestingly, before exiting the hawker scene initially, Wan Fong had discussed the possibility of returning to work at Naked Finn with his former boss Ken Loon, while still retaining shares in his previous hawker stall. The plan was to leverage Naked Finn’s kitchen and equipment for production work that was difficult to accomplish in the small hawker stall. 

“We needed to deep-fry the sole fish, blend it, then turn it into powder for our soup,” Wan Fong explains. “These processes take time and space that we didn’t have at the stall.” With Naked Finn’s fully equipped kitchen, they could produce larger batches less frequently rather than struggling with daily small-batch production.

Wan Fong shares: "My boss always supports me. After I told him my situation, he agreed. I wasn't using the kitchen daily, maybe just once a week." After so many years working together, their relationship transcended that of employer-employee. "It's not just boss and employee anymore. Maybe it's like family," he says.

After he sold his share in his first stall, Wan Fong continued at his former workplace, Naked Finn, where he had previously worked as head chef for eight-and-a-half years. He remained there for another three years before deciding to venture out on his own again. 

He adds, "It was a good life at Naked Finn, I had stable pay and CPF”. So why leave again to become a hawker?

Second time's the charm?

One major motivation for returning to hawker life was to spend more time with his family, especially his two kids, aged eight and 11. Despite the 5am wake-up time, the hawker schedule allows him to close shop by 5pm and be home for family dinner and evening activities. 

“This is one of the reasons I left restaurant life,” Wan Fong explains. “Of course, restaurant life has its off days, but on the daily, I hardly see my kids. When I come home from work at night, they are already asleep. When they get up early for school, I’m still asleep as I worked late at the restaurant the night before.”

His hawker schedule has completely changed this dynamic. “Now, when I reach home, I can still play with them for a while, I can freely choose my time,” he says with satisfaction.

Why is his new stall’s signboard concealed?

Getting the Golden Mile stall wasn't easy – he had been bidding for over a year. "Every time, I always came second," he shares. This time, he secured the space by increasing his bid price slightly. The result? $3,688 monthly rental, with initial costs including "about $12,000" for the rental deposit alone.

Despite soft-launching his stall on April 7, Wan Fong hasn't revealed his stall's signboard, keeping it covered with a red cloth. "I'm Chinese, so I choose the [official opening] date carefully. This week is still considered the Qingming festival, so there are no ‘good’ days," he explains. He plans to officially unveil his signage on April 18, which the fengshui master he consulted says is an auspicious date.

When asked why he chose Golden Mile, Wan Fong cited several factors: "The location is good. It has both an office crowd and a neighborhood crowd. I'm also more familiar with the environment there."

"Golden Mile is quite suitable for me. The rent is not too high compared to other places," he explains. It’s a relative bargain compared to what Wan Fong paid at his previous stall Qing Feng Yuan at Tiong Bahru Food Centre. Back in 2021, the stall commanded an eye-watering $5,223 monthly rent – the highest tender bid submitted during March 2021's tender exercise for hawker stall rentals. 

That original stall is still around, now renamed Qing Yuan Fish Soup and operated solely by his former business partner.

Starting all over again

Is it tough starting from scratch all over again? Wan Fong says: “It was much easier this time. The first time was scarier, I was more stressed and nervous.”

“I’m alone now,” he explains. “Before, even if you make a profit, your revenue has to be divided by two partners.”

Now working solo in his stall, Wan Fong set up a self-ordering kiosk to ease his workload.

“This time around, I had time to prepare, source for equipment, and design a better layout. It was very hot in the kitchen last time. It's still hot now, but not as hot as before.” he explains that he’s now using an induction cooker to replace some of the gas stoves.

Why sell fish soup again?

“I’ve always loved local food,” Wan Fong shares. “I worked in a restaurant but I don't eat at restaurants, I only eat hawker food.”

For Wan Fong, preserving traditional Teochew fish soup is part of doing the ‘right thing’. “Teochew fish soup seems to be getting less common. The fish soups I see sold outside are getting less traditional, with milk-based options.”

As for why he's focused specifically on fish soup and ngoh hiang rather than selling other dishes: "I want to sell a lot of things, but based on the limited stall space, it's impossible to do that much. So I'd rather focus on one item, which is fish soup, and ngoh hiang."

Both dishes connect deeply with his family. “Ngoh hiang has the flavours of my grandma, my mum, even my mother-in-law’s cooking. The taste I experienced when I was young is what I'm serving now. It’s part of my childhood — I want to continue this tradition,” he shares. This explains the logic behind his stall name.

What's on the menu

Wan Fong offers three different fish soup options: Batang Fish Soup ($5.50), Fish Head Soup ($8.50), and Seafood Soup ($8.50) with prawns and clams. Diners can also add ingredients like seasoned minced pork for $1 or scallop for $2. His Handmade Ngoh Hiang goes for $3.50 per roll. 

Unlike his previous stall that also sold premium fish like blue cod, Wan Fong decided to keep things simple by only offering batang. “It’s hard to find space for cod, which has to be ordered in large cartons,” he explains.

Has the recipe changed since his days at Qing Feng Yuan? "I’d say it's the improved version, I made some adjustments," he chirps confidently. "Of course, this is based on personal preference," he adds modestly. "It may be good, but it can be better — there is no best". 

Bau Mak is at #01-82 505, Golden Mile Food Centre, Beach Rd, S99583. Open daily 8am - 5pm (or till sold out). Tel: 9007 0161. 

Photos: Alvin Teo, Bau Mak

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