Michelin Guide 2017 Behind The Scenes: A Tipsy Bak Chor Mee Hawker, A Kiss Between Two Chefs

Tang Chay Seng, 71, the burly boss of the popular bak chor mee stall, reprised his one Michelin star and the delightful safari suit he wore for last year’s event. “I’ve been here since 4.30pm. I’m thinking of going home already, but my friend persuaded me to stay,” the flushed hawker told us, somewhat tipsily in Mandarin, before the event started at 6.30pm. It could be a rare night out for him. For the past year, the man has been busier than ever, since his Michelin star brought more customers queuing for his bak chor mee (the average wait is 2 hours). “Honestly, I’m quite tired. I’d like to rest. But not retire okay? Just rest,” he shared. “But I’m happy that people like our food. Business goes on as usual.”

What a difference a year makes. After Waku Ghin was awarded only one star last year, the restaurant finally nabbed its rightful two stars this time. Its celeb chef-owner, the Japan-born, Sydney-based Tetsuya Wakuda, was all smiles this time (right), compared to his emotional reaction (left) the previous year when the results were announced. The chef drops by his Singapore restaurant about once a month these days. “I feel very fortunate and proud of my team. I’m not here every day, but they performed [despite] such high expectations,” said Tetsuya. “Was I disappointed by last year’s results? Well, it’s nice to be recognised. Of course, if we do get three stars it would be nice, but I’m running a business — I need to focus on keeping up its quality [rather than obsess over awards].”

Nobody has had a better year than hawker Chan Hon Meng, 53. After receiving one Michelin star last year for his stall Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle at Chinatown Complex Food Centre and opening his chain of Hawker Chan-branded restaurants (which has since expanded overseas to Taipei), the diminutive chef has blossomed and, er, gained some prosperous weight. While he was shy and overwhelmed during his first win last July (see left), the shiny, happy hawker walked confidently like a boss on stage this year to receive his one star. “I’m planning to open more outlets overseas, like in the Philippines and Australia!” the Mandarin-speaking Hon Meng exclaimed energetically.

Cantonese eatery Chef Kang’s may boast one Michelin star now, but the first thing that its chef-owner Ang Song Kang (or Chef Kang as he is affectionately known), 53, wants to say to his customers is “sorry”. He explained in Mandarin: “I feel really apologetic if people have to wait [for my food]. My restaurant is small, and I have no plans to expand yet ’cos I’m cooking everything by myself now. It is the only way I can control the standard of the cooking. I also go overseas to buy ingredients personally. If I get a [sous chef] who doesn’t understand how things work at my restaurant, then everything will fall apart.”

Boyish local chef Malcolm Lee, 33, has relocated his one-star Peranakan restaurant Candlenut to swankier digs at COMO Dempsey, though his success came at a price. Last year, the chef confided in us that his girlfriend had broken up with him for “working at least 12 hours daily”. This year, Malcolm reckons he’s a changed man. “I was so obsessed with the business and [the breakup] helped me change my perspective about running the restaurant. Everything has changed, from my working hours to the culture in the kitchen. We work hard and play hard as well. My staff has families and kids, and after being through my heartache, I don’t want them to make the same mistakes I made.”

There are seven two-Michelin-stars winners this year, including mod Sichuan eatery Shisen Hanten and sushi restaurant Shoukouwa (both maintained their two stars from last year). Thanks to a snafu, the two restaurants were almost left out of the list after the emcee accidentally announced only five winners instead of seven. “Sorry, the [cue cards] got stuck together,” said the emcee sheepishly. Yikes. Shoukouwa’s co-owner, chef Emmanuel Stroobant, 49, was in Mauritius for work, so his wife and co-owner Edina Hong (pictured), 44, received the accolade on his behalf. “We tried Facetiming him [to tell him the good news] but the connection at his side wasn’t so good,” she chirped. But she reckoned there will be no celebrations, and it’s not just ’cos her hubby was out of town: “Celebrate? (Laughs) We don’t celebrate. We work.”

The Michelin Guide Singapore 2017 is available on www.guide.michelin.sg