Tell This Hawker Your Budget & He’ll Whip Up A Zi Char ‘Omakase’ Meal At Fatty Ox HK Kitchen

Business dates back to 1986

The business dates started in 1986, when Hong Kong-born chef Cheung Sun Kwai opened Fatty Ox Hong Kong Roast Duck at a shophouse on Pagoda Street.

He later turned it into a casual family-style zi char eatery at Murray Street, where it operated from the early ’90s until 2009. A brief six-month stint at North Bridge Road followed.

In 2011, Cheung opened the current Fatty Ox HK Kitchen stall at Chinatown Complex Food Centre.

The family later ventured beyond the hawker centre with a 30-seat restaurant at 50 Smith Street in 2022. That outlet has since closed, leaving the Chinatown Complex stall as its sole location.

Give the hawker your budget and he’ll tailor your meal accordingly

Our colleague visited the stall with two friends and gave the chef-owner a budget of $60 for three people, leaving the dish selection entirely up to him.

It was fun watching him whip up each dish, not knowing exactly what he was going to serve till it’s ready.

First up was a soon hock fish head stir-fry. He deep-fried the fish first, before tossing it with sliced veg in a gravy flavoured with ginger, scallions, fermented black beans and oyster sauce. The fish was tender and savoury, while the gravy packed a spicy kick at the end. Yum.

Eggplant and tofu claypot with roast duck

Next, came an eggplant and tofu claypot with chunks of roast duck from the brand’s neighbouring stall.

The soft eggplant and mildly sweet tofu soaked up the light soy-based gravy. Meanwhile, the duck was tender and fresh, though some of its smoky roast flavour was muted after being stir-fried into the sauce.

We loved the third dish of crispy ngoh hiang. Unlike typical versions where the filling is finely minced, these contained discernible chunks of pork and veg, which added a nice bite. All three dishes were served with the stall’s spicy XO sauce, which paired well with everything.

Considering that this hearty, satisfying meal included fish and duck, our colleague found $60 pretty good value for three people.
Just call ahead before visiting to book your hawker ‘omakase’.

Fatty Ox HK Kitchen is located at Chinatown Complex Food Centre, #02-84, 335 Smith St, S050335. Open Wed to Sun 7.30am to 2.30pm. Closed Mon and Tue. Tel: 9638-5345.