Chinese SAF Major Quits Army To Become Biryani Hawker, Living The Dream Despite 90% Pay Cut  

In July, he opened Spicelios, a corner stall at Amoy Street Food Market two rows away from his parents’ old fruit juice stall at #01-17, which his wife, Low Siew Hui, 40, has since taken over. “He calls himself ‘Amoy Boy’,” she shares with a hilarious roll of her eyes.

At first, she wasn’t for the idea of him leaving his stable government job to start a food business; she was concerned about the financial instability and she knew the hardship of running a hawker stall. Still, to help him fulfill his dream, this supportive missus joins him to do prep work every morning, before going back to her own stall. She sells innovative fruit juices like the colourful ABC (apple, beetroot and carrot) Yakult ($4) and 10 flavours of soya beancurd ($1.70 to $2.20)  

In fact, other than the nostalgia factor, Wei Yong wanted to start a hawker stall at Amoy Street Food Centre so he could spend more time with Siew Hui. “Now, I’m able to have breakfast, lunch and dinner with her every day as we are working under the same roof,” says the father-of-three. 

The biryani dude who hardly cooked before becoming a hawker

Interestingly, Wei Yong hasn’t cooked much before starting his business. “I make instant noodles and the occasional pasta,” he volunteers. “But I enjoy eating Indian food. My faves are Egg Onion Prata and Mutton Biryani. I can eat prata for my breakfast every day!”

He took on his new endeavour with military precision and embarked on research online, picked up cooking tips from his dad and mother-in-law, and learned from an Indian army officer’s nasi biryani recipe. “My current recipes are all self-created after many attempts,” says Wei Yong.

From major to hawker

He also tapped on the military style of working. “Discipline: Waking up early and on time! 0530hrs reveille and 2359hrs lights off! Fighting spirit: Hawker life is not easy, as I have to wake up early to prepare for the day.” Though he admits that at times, the effort he puts in does not pay off equally in terms of monetary returns, “I have to keep on fighting!” He shares with us that he took a 90 per cent pay cut. Why risk it all to be a hawker? “You only live once, chase your dreams and never regret,” he says simply. 

“My family had to adjust their daily lifestyle and routine [to my new hawker job] but I'm fortunate to have unwavering support from them, especially my wife.” His parents and grandma pop by daily to help out at both stalls during peak hours.

The menu

‘Spicelios’ is a play on the word ‘Spices’ because they are core ingredients in his biryani. “Lios doesn't have a specific meaning but it imparts a sense of elegance and allure to the name. This suffix elevates Spicelios from being just another spice blend to a captivating and memorable culinary experience,” explains Wei Yong via text. (We swear, he sounds like he has a PR team behind him.)

He offers traditional Chicken and Mutton Biryani; fusion wraps stuffed with your choice of veggies or Biryani rice; and affordable fried chicken wings at $1.50 a pop or $4 for three. Other menu items he’d like to add some day: mee goreng, prata and masala dosa.

Chicken Biryani, $6.50 (8 DAYS PICK for the curry one)

Fluffy Basmati rice, egg, papadum and yogurt salad accompany a sizable chicken leg. The tender, flavour-infused curry chook is much better than the fried one which, though not exactly dry, was a little tough on the teeth. It could also use a few extra hours in the marinade. Unlike the dum biryani style where the meat is cooked with the rice, Wei Yong cooks his curry chicken and mutton separate from his rice. Overall, the biryani uses all the usual spices – star anise, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves, to name a few – but tastes lighter than your typical local kopitiam-style Indian biryani. Purists may argue otherwise but we like it. 

You can also enjoy the curry chicken with supplier-bought naan ($6.50) but we say go for the more fragrant rice. 

Mutton Biryani, $8

The meat is tender enough, cloaked in a thick gravy that goes nicely with the rice. Mutton lovers may enjoy Spicelio’s version but we’re not a big fan of its gamey flavour. 

Giant Wraps, $6.90 (8 DAYS PICK!)

We love these giant wraps, each stuffed full of lettuce, cabbage, onion, tomato, grilled chicken or chicken biryani and three toppings (options include biryani rice, broccoli, mozzarella cheese and more) and two sauces (including their yummy curry).

The big array of ingredients looks fresh and Wei Yong is very generous with them. He rolls up each hefty 12-inch roll and grills it in a panini press. 

The rolls are huge. We saw two OLs order one, cut it in half and share their brunch.

If you’re in the mood for more carbs, the chicken biryani one, topped with curry potatoes and the usual veggies, hits the spot.

Bottom line

Admittedly, Weiyong’s decision to sell biryani for the novelty factor is blatantly gimmicky. But hey, isn’t that kinda how we got Chinese versions of mee goreng and curry chicken? We rather enjoyed his ‘biryani lite’, but it’s the giant wraps that we’ll come back for. One of these fat rolls will fuel us up enough to drop 20 – or even 40. 

The details

Spicelios is at 7 Maxwell Rd, #01-69 Amoy Street Food Centre, S069111. Tel: 8812 3288. Opens weekdays 8am - 7pm; closed weekends. More info via Instagram, Facebook, TikTok and website.

Photos: Dillon Tan.

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