Hossan Leong, Who Now Lives In JB, Recommends Best Spots For ‘Chao Tar’ Bee Hoon & Zi Char

Balinese vibes at Jombali Village

We met a convenient 10-minute drive from said Causeway, in the Taman Pelangi area, at Jombali Village. A meal with “The Singapore Boy” at an Indonesian restaurant in Malaysia? The irony was not lost on us. But for Hossan, it’s a top pick for three reasons: excellent food, “relaxed Bali vibes” and because it’s just five minutes from his doorstep.

Located on the second floor of a shophouse, the air-conditioned eatery was a cool, lantern-lit retreat from the blazing heat. With its understated design, bar stools, high tables and expansive balcony, Jombali Village felt primed for conviviality and alfresco sundowners.

In contrast to the chill dining space, the open-concept kitchen crackled with energy and fire. With the many bakar – or grilled – dishes on the menu, we were in for a flame-kissed feast created by Chef Gary Hong.

Chef worked at Morton’s of Chicago & Saint Pierre in S’pore

 The 45-year-old is a veteran of Singapore’s dining scene, with stints at The American Club, Morton’s of Chicago, and Saint Pierre. After more than a decade of running his own restaurants, the COVID-19 pandemic changed his plans and he returned to JB.

“In 2024 I came back, found an investor, then started Jombali Village. The concept of our menu is mainly flavour-forward with fresh produce and a touch of creativity,” he explained.

But why the Indonesian theme for his new restaurant? Despite his Western culinary background, Chef Gary’s roots run deep in JB. In the 1960s, his grandfather founded the legendary Yong Nasi Padang on Jalan Wong Ah Fook. 

Chef Gary recalled helping out in the family restaurant, adding that it “lasted two generations from grandparents to my dad. Unfortunately, they passed in 1997, the same year we closed”.

The menu at Jombali Village is an intentional tribute to the flavours of his childhood and his grandfather’s recipes but reimagined through Western techniques.

Excellent ikan bakar

The ikan bakar (grilled fish) was a show-stopper – whole Mangrove Jack flame-grilled and glazed with sambal kicap. The fish was fresh – flavourful flakes and crispy, charred skin bursting with smoky sweetness amplified by the side of sambal madu (honey chilli dip).

Chef Gary works closely with his suppliers to keep the fish affordably priced (under RM100 or $32.53 for approximately 850g). “My minimum requirement is sea-raised fish, usually from the snapper family, hybrid groupers, threadfins, seabass and tilapias,” he said, all of which are displayed on ice for the choosing.

Fab cuttlefish ink crab fried rice

The seafood theme continued with nasi goreng ketam (crab fried rice, RM45). This was not your average fried rice. Again, fire was applied in full force, imparting intense wok hei to turmeric steamed rice, ginger oil, garlic, scallion, lime leaf and kampung eggs. Spanish cuttlefish ink brought the umami, pasteurized lump crab brought the sweetness and a spiced batter topping brought the crunch. The latter was a brilliant textural touch, inspired by the crispy crumbs that typically garnish ayam goreng berempah (spiced fried chicken).

True to Jombali Village’s DNA, our chicken dish was another ode to barbeque. The nasi ayam bakar Sumatra (RM30) featured a bone-in leg marinated in a tangy spiced brine, steamed, then grilled till crispy-on-the-outside and succulent-on-the-inside. Chicken drippings were reserved for the side of yellow rice, steamed in a blend of fresh turmeric, lemongrass & gelatinous chicken stock. For a lighter nasi kunyit, Chef Gary uses a 20 per cent broken jasmine rice blend so that it can also be paired with his gulai dishes.

Great steaks, too

The rib-eye steak (RM70/100g) was where Chef Gary’s skills shone, drawing on his experience at Morton’s and 12 years at the helm of his own steakhouse. Perfectly pink with a seared crust, the fat marbling offered a good balance between silky tenderness robust beefiness.

“In my opinion, the best way to grill a steak is with high heat and good salt. I only use chilled Australian Full Blood Wagyu,” Chef Gary explained. 

"While he occasionally trades the richness of rib-eye for a leaner New York strip, the Indonesian influence remains constant. Our steak was flavoured with a rendang-inspired kerisik glaze – a fragrant, toasted coconut nod to Grandpa’s culinary legacy. 

For a lighter bite, try Chef Gary’s signature jagung bakar (grilled corn, RM18). Japanese pearl corn was expertly tossed over “lots of fire” for that essential wok-infused smokiness. Each caramelised kernel popped with sweetness and savoury char. 

Savoury-sweet, deep-fried bar snacks include a twist on pisang goreng (fried bananas, RM18) – battered banana nuggets with salted egg dressing and shaved Pecorino Romano cheese to finish; and the bawang goreng (fried onions, RM28) – a crispy blooming onion seasoned with honey, chilli and spices. 

After that stellar introduction to the neighbourhood, Hossan and I were ready for more.

“Three-storey dry bee hoon” at Restoran Ah Kaw

Of the many eateries that populate the neighbourhood, one stands out for its signature dish. Copied by many but originated by 68-year-old Mr Yeo Lai Kee in 1979, san lou gan mi fen (three-storey dry bee hoon) is the main attraction at Restoran Ah Kaw. Located just steps from Jombali Village, the old-school zi char joint bears Mr Yeo’s nickname and is a must-visit on every foodie’s itinerary.

San lou gan mi fen (RM11) is better known as chao tar (burnt) bee hoon in Singapore. Appropriately dubbed, as the dish resembles a beautifully bronzed vermicelli pancake, its surface branded with aromatic char. Elevating what is essentially a basic noodle dish was no small feat – it took tireless experimentation for Mr Yeo to develop his sizzling technique.

After a toss with egg, fish cake slices, prawn and cai xin, bee hoon is pressed down firmly in the searing-hot wok to develop a crispy crust. Expert control of the fire is crucial for creating the signature scorched surface, while keeping the bee hoon beneath tender and moist.

Seasoned with dark soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil and garlic, the wok hei from the bee hoon was transcendent. The accompanying sambal needs special mention – it was spicy and packed the fermented shrimp punch of belacan.

Why the quirky name?

Origin stories for the name abound – why San Lou? I assumed it was because of Restoran Ah Kaw’s location in a three-storey building, but Hossan had heard it was created elsewhere, in a village known as San Lou.

Turns out we were both right – kind of.

The dish originated in the suburb of Stulang, which was once a fishing village with a large Teochew community. Mr Yeo created his masterpiece whilst still a cook at San Low Seafood Restaurant, a JB stalwart located at one of the area’s iconic three-storey public housing blocks. It has since relocated to Taman Pelangi, not far from Mr Yeo’s Restoran Ah Kaw.

Yummy homemade beancurd and fish head curry

His legacy is now in the hands of his son Isaac Yeo, 34, who personally handled the wok for our san lou bee hoon. He and his mother, Tan Siew Cheng, 65, charmed us into sampling a few more dishes. Before long, we were digging into curry fish head (RM45 for a small portion), made with a touch of evaporated milk for creaminess, tamarind for tang and packed with veggies like lady’s finger, long beans and brinjal. 

The homemade signature bean curd (RM15) was also worth the calories. A savoury blend of soft tofu, minced prawn and a duo of chicken and century eggs, the crispy cubes were delicate and velvety at the core. Though served with sweet mayonnaise, the dish was delicious on its own.

Our multi-course feast was drawing to a close, yet I was reluctant to throw in the towel. Still on my list: nasi lemak kukus, chee cheong fun and claypot chicken rice from Taman Pelangi Food Court and the Tuesday Taman Pelangi Pasar Malam opposite Jombali Village. But those would have to wait for my next visit.

"Call me anytime – I’m known to my friends as Concierge Leong," Hossan responded gamely.

Jombali Village is located at 39A Jalan Perang, Taman Pelangi, Johor Bahru 80400, Malaysia. Open daily 12.30pm to 10pm. More info via Instagram.

Restoran Ah Kaw is located at 33 Jalan Perang, Taman Pelangi, Johor Bahru 80400, Malaysia. Open Wed to Mon 11.30am to 2.30pm; 5.30pm to 9.30pm. Closed Tue.

Catch Makan Kakis with Denise Tan every Thur from 11am on MediaCorp GOLD 905.

Source: CNA/mm

The original version of this story first appeared in CNA Lifestyle.

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